This is a wonderful sleeper of a route. Probably lots of folks have looked up at it and thought, "looks like a miserable gully slog-- no way it could be good." Surprise!
About 100 yards to the left of Beulah's Book is an indistinct buttress leading up to the left side of a huge roof. The buttress is bordered on its left side by a brushy, unappealing gully. Start at the very toe of this buttress.
Pitch 1: Pleasant face climbing leads up to a right-slanting crack. Belay at its top.
Pitch 2: Step right and climb over a slight bulge, then face climb straight up staying near the junction of the white and dark rock. Belay on a ledge to the left. (Just left of this ledge is a rap station on a tree in the gully; one long rappel, down and west, reaches the ground near the start of Dubious Flirtations.) Note also that there is an off route bolt a little to the right of the beginning of this pitch, presumably as part of a variation start.
Pitch 3: Step right and continue up a small dihedral. Belay at a small stance with shrubbery and a chimney above.
Pitch 4: Move up the dihedral past an annoying bush and into a featured squeeze chimney. Climb this chimney to a wide clean gully and continue up to another wide gully/chimney to another stance above a large chockstone.
Pitch 5: Climb out of the gully onto the arete and face on the left side of the slot, then up and out onto slab. Move up until reaching a ledge approximately even with the large Solar Slab Terrace. (An easy traverse right at this point gives access to the Terrace and the routes continuing there.)
Pitch 6: Continue straight up the rounded buttress above on pleasant slab climbing. A very long pitch (60m+?) leads to a good belay ledge at a pine tree. (Alternatively, divide the pitch in two by belaying at a varnished scoop.)
Pitch 7: Climb up and slightly right on even more pleasant slabs until reaching a large brushy ledge.
At this point you can scramble right (class 3) for 100 feet, passing the top of Going Nuts, and join Solar Slab two pitches above the terrace. Alternatively, and more direct, continue straight up over broken rock and join Sunspot Ridge at The Notch. Continue to the top by one of these routes, and descend as for Solar Slab.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2006-10-12
Route ID: 80626
I got the impression while adding a pitch to Sunburn today that its alot like its longer neighbor, Sunspot- very alpine in nature, with long run-outs on easy terrain and semi-questionable rock in places. If you're familiar with Red Rocks, it can be a great day out- a little spice on an otherwise less than challenging route. However, if you're new to the area, a trip up Solar Slab may be a better idea, as the nature of this route is not so much high quality perfect rock, but more of a serene, aesthetic outing with good friends on a beautiful day.....
This route would be better named Bush Series as for all the bushwacking on the route and getting to the route required!!! This is by far the worst route I've climbed at Red Rocks. Watch out for crap rock on long easy class 5 runouts as well if my first comments don't dissuade you. My only reprieve on this climb is that any day spent on a bad route beats a great day at work anytime.