An excellent climb that goes up to the right of Solar Slab. Bring your 5.9 slab skills on this one! Start as per Solar Slab. Pitch 1: Cruise up the easy face to the straight in crack. Follow this to a ledge with 2 bolts, 180', 5.5 Pitch 2: Head up the obvious crack to the right of belay. Follow this to two more bolts (do NOT skip this station), 80' 5.8 Pitch 3: Continue up the crack until it ends. From here, head up and slightly left, passing one bolt just before you hit belay, 170', 5.8+/5.9- Pitch 4: The money pitch. Head straight up from belay, following the bolts until they end. From here, head to the crack above. Follow this until a small stance appears, 180', 5.9 Pitch 5: Follow the crack until a nice natural belay stance appears, 180', 5.6 Pitch 6: Head up and left toward the trees to the top of the climb, 80', 4th class. Descent: Rap as per Solar Slab. Update: I changed this to an 'R' rating for the two 40' plus sections with no pro. Both are in the 5.8/5.9 range and are sustained.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-08-06
Route ID: 48695
Dow led this. We bailed onto the bottom of the crux pitch of this off of Heliotrope, which was elusive and runout. I thought it one of the best pitches of a long, hard day. The easy (5.5ish) traverse at the end is mostly unprotectable, fun for the leader AND the second!