To the right of Solar Slab is a giant boulder sitting about halfway up the wall, below the first terrace. This is the top of the Friar. Start at a beautiful right facing dihedral in black rock. Pitch 1: Climb the dihedral to a legdge on the right, 5.8, 100'. Pitch 2: Ascend the right slanting crack to another dihedral and follow it up and left to a stance. 5.7, 100' Pitch 3: Head up the face above, cutting right when the rock quality deteriorates and belaying on a large ledge on the left. 5.7R, 100' Pitch 4: Ascend the west arete of the boulder, cutting right to a bolt, then head to the top on steep terrain. 5.9+ R, 35'
Rap the route with a single 60m rope.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-08-06
Last Modified: 2006-11-18
Route ID: 57542
The last pitch is burly and heads-up for a Red Rock 5.9. After pulling through the first moves and getting situated on the boulder, you can get a nut in between two thin flakes. Then go right around the corner and mantle onto a ledge where the bolt is. If you can lead this pitch, you'll cruise something like Levitation 29 (or perhaps it would be better to say, you shouldn't attempt to lead this pitch unless you onsight 5.11 sport at Red Rock).
with dow below... i think that a couple of nuts and double ropes prevent decking from the crux (but dow was probably in a better position to judge?)... large brass nuts may have been useful, who knows. my guidebook claims that there are two bolts after you traverse to the arete, but i only saw one, which either means i was already too high, or the guidebook is incorrect... all in all quite a fun little route, though i would recommend you not be pushing your abilities on the last pitch. excellent position!
those are accurate adjectives. The climbing is no more difficult on that 4th pitch than 5.9, but the pro opportunities are not warm and fuzzy to say the least. The problem is not a fall as much as the decking opportunity on top of the pinnacle from where the belay starts. The crux move or two is right off the deck. The bolt is out right and well beyond the difficult moves. We combined those middle two pitches for a full 200' to the belay to start the 4th pitch. With Brad from Calgary.
Really good route- the first two pitches are good by themselves, but if you're strong, do the top two as well. The last pitch is spicy at the grade, and pretty burly too- but the topout is worth it for sure and its a great climb!