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The Friar - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock (Trad)
R
4
gear
350
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.75/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 4.75/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

To the right of Solar Slab is a giant boulder sitting about halfway up the wall, below the first terrace. This is the top of the Friar. Start at a beautiful right facing dihedral in black rock. Pitch 1: Climb the dihedral to a legdge on the right, 5.8, 100'. Pitch 2: Ascend the right slanting crack to another dihedral and follow it up and left to a stance. 5.7, 100' Pitch 3: Head up the face above, cutting right when the rock quality deteriorates and belaying on a large ledge on the left. 5.7R, 100' Pitch 4: Ascend the west arete of the boulder, cutting right to a bolt, then head to the top on steep terrain. 5.9+ R, 35'

Descent Options:

Rap the route with a single 60m rope.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-08-06
Last Modified: 2006-11-18
Views: 1032
Route ID: 57542

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7 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 7 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: byran on 2009-11-27 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars The Friar

The last pitch is burly and heads-up for a Red Rock 5.9. After pulling through the first moves and getting situated on the boulder, you can get a nut in between two thin flakes. Then go right around the corner and mantle onto a ledge where the bolt is. If you can lead this pitch, you'll cruise something like Levitation 29 (or perhaps it would be better to say, you shouldn't attempt to lead this pitch unless you onsight 5.11 sport at Red Rock).

Added: 2009-11-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: satch on 2009-11-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Spooky finish

Great line, risky traverse at the end.

Added: 2009-11-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2008-12-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars i rate the spice: nutmeg.

with dow below... i think that a couple of nuts and double ropes prevent decking from the crux (but dow was probably in a better position to judge?)... large brass nuts may have been useful, who knows. my guidebook claims that there are two bolts after you traverse to the arete, but i only saw one, which either means i was already too high, or the guidebook is incorrect... all in all quite a fun little route, though i would recommend you not be pushing your abilities on the last pitch. excellent position!

Added: 2008-12-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2008-12-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Spicy, Scary....

those are accurate adjectives. The climbing is no more difficult on that 4th pitch than 5.9, but the pro opportunities are not warm and fuzzy to say the least. The problem is not a fall as much as the decking opportunity on top of the pinnacle from where the belay starts. The crux move or two is right off the deck. The bolt is out right and well beyond the difficult moves. We combined those middle two pitches for a full 200' to the belay to start the 4th pitch. With Brad from Calgary.

Added: 2008-12-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2006-11-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun, but spicy!

Really good route- the first two pitches are good by themselves, but if you're strong, do the top two as well. The last pitch is spicy at the grade, and pretty burly too- but the topout is worth it for sure and its a great climb!

Added: 2006-11-18

... Read all 7 ascent notes