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Orange Clonus - 5.10d

Average Rating = 3.60/5 Average Rating : 3.60 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Herbst, Kaufman
Rock (Trad)
G
5
gear
500
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.75/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.25/5
  Fun Factor 3.75/5

Description:

This route ascends the left side of the Straight Shooter formation- the start is located in an obvious black varnished corner with three bolts heading up it right at the entrance to the Beer and Ice Gully. Pitch 1: Climb the corner, following 5 bolts up to a ledge with a tree- .10d, 100' Pitch 2: Head up the hueco'd face to a wide crack and follow it to the top and belay. .5, 100' Pitch 3: Climb the face/chimney to a good ledge .6, 80' From here, you'll head into the slot gully on the north side of the formation you're under. (Look down to see the remains of a big horn sheep) Follow this up to a huge ledge system and follow the trail to the base of an obvious white corner. Pitch 4: Climb the corner/arete system to the base of the splitter above. 5.8, 40' Pitch 5: Climb the business- all the way to the top. .10d, 150'

Descent Options:

Intricate rappels and downclimbing westward into the Beer and Ice Gully. You'll find four rappel stations, generally head west. (From the summit, head north to the other side of the ledge to the first rappel). A single rope is sufficient, watch for the ro

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-12
Views: 675
Route ID: 57182

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2011-11-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars The first pitch

is bullet hard right off the ground, had to aid on a draw while seconding. Then its followed by 400 feet of absolute crap. The final 200 feet of the route is as good as it gets and almost makes up for the middle part of the route. The downclimb on the descent is also very exciting...

Added: 2011-11-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2011-04-27 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Orange Clonus

The first couple pitches lent me to believe I was just on another of many scouting trips of bad routes at Red Rock. However the final two pitches were extraordinary for the area and made up for the middle section. The first pitch was a fun pitch as well. There is no fixed gear on the route beyond the first pitch. The first and sixth pitches involve the crux moves of the Orange Clonus and the last pitch is the most enjoyable (hand and fist crack to the top of the route). The middle pitches are best soloed in my opinion. The rap is via trees down Beer and Ice Gully. I would be exta .3-.75" for that upper crux pitch and stay pretty light on everything else.

Added: 2011-05-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: aerili on 2010-01-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sweet cold day route

Burly first pitch! Might be 11a. Unfortunately some forgettable 3rd, 4th and 5th classing breaks up the middle of this route, but still well worth doing as the upper pitches are very nice and aesthetic. #1-sized hands make the 10d splitter up higher easier to sink a rest on.

Added: 2010-01-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-12 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars demanding, rewarding

Have your 'A' game on for this one. Good route!

Added: 2008-12-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucaskrajnik on 2008-04-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars srfrh

there is a rams skelton where it fell in a cre-vas?? if you can find it/ :) its somwhere to the left on the last pitch of the easy stuff before you get to the ledge..i took a horn.....and goin back for the other...

Added: 2008-05-03