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Birdland - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 4.11/5 Average Rating : 4.11 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 22
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (82)
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Rock
Standard rack to 3", 2 60m ropes to rappel (or 1 70m rope)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.91/5
  Rock Quality 4.09/5
  Scenery 4.43/5
  Fun Factor 4.25/5

Description:

This is a fun 5 pitch route that climbs the face just to the left of Spectrum. Look for the large roofs on the Brass Wall Left, and start about 30 feet left of the bottom roof. It may share a pitch or two with an old Joe Herbst route called The Big Horn. Start on the black face to the left of Spectrum.

P1 Follow the left-most crack up 100 ft. to a bushy ledge with a bolted belay. (5.6)
P2 Chimney or face leads to another bushy ledge with loose rock. A variation to this pitch is to climb right of the chimney over an easy but slightly overhanging face. (5.7)
P3 Go up the ramp slightly right and then follow the left leaning (right facing) cool crack left 20 feet to a bolt. Straight up the small overhang to a face and a slanting bolted station. (5.7)
P4 Angle slightly right across the white face and up towards the large black face to another two bolt station. Look for the slight concave section of the wall at the skyline. This is where you want to head. Excellent face climbing, using pods and hidden cracks for pro. (5.6)
P5 From the belay go right towards the crack and then follow this to the final belay. An awesome finger crack finishes off this pitch. Very worth while.
P6 Looks like chossy rope-eating loose rock, not worth it.

Descent: Rap the entire route. Pitch 5 requires two ropes or a 70 m. The other pitches can be rapped with one 60m. Pitch 2 requires a 10 foot downclimb through an easy chimney if you want to rap it with one 60m.

Submitted by: nieder on 2005-12-05
Views: 2983
Route ID: 48294

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82 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: caysedave on 2008-01-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars velcro

rope stuck goodness

Added: 2014-01-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: UmBerto on 2013-04-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun and Mellow

This is a very mellow and fun climb. P1 is fairly steep, but juggy and easy to protect. P2 and 3 can be linked with a 70 m rope and are varied and fun, with an interesting right to left undercling traverse. P4 is face climbing on fantastic varnished juggy rock. Pure fun. P5 is a bit steeper and finishes with a nice crack, but face holds abound.

Added: 2013-04-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: jkushwvt on 2012-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Busy

Good climb but not worth it if there's a long line. Great bolted stations with tons of space and an easy repel. Easy trad lead.

Added: 2012-03-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bowleggedgoat on 2010-11-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Birdland Red Rock Canyon

Some good moments. The route facing you on the dihedral is called The Big Horn.

Added: 2012-02-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: geno88 on 2012-01-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Way to busy.

We climbed the first three pitches, but were behind a group of three that were not moving very fast and had two groups behind us so gave up and rapped off from the top of the third pitch.

Added: 2012-01-20

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