This is a fun 5 pitch route that climbs the face just to the left of Spectrum. Look for the large roofs on the Brass Wall Left, and start about 30 feet left of the bottom roof. It may share a pitch or two with an old Joe Herbst route called The Big Horn. Start on the black face to the left of Spectrum.
P1 Follow the left-most crack up 100 ft. to a bushy ledge with a bolted belay. (5.6) P2 Chimney or face leads to another bushy ledge with loose rock. A variation to this pitch is to climb right of the chimney over an easy but slightly overhanging face. (5.7) P3 Go up the ramp slightly right and then follow the left leaning (right facing) cool crack left 20 feet to a bolt. Straight up the small overhang to a face and a slanting bolted station. (5.7) P4 Angle slightly right across the white face and up towards the large black face to another two bolt station. Look for the slight concave section of the wall at the skyline. This is where you want to head. Excellent face climbing, using pods and hidden cracks for pro. (5.6) P5 From the belay go right towards the crack and then follow this to the final belay. An awesome finger crack finishes off this pitch. Very worth while. P6 Looks like chossy rope-eating loose rock, not worth it.
Descent: Rap the entire route. Pitch 5 requires two ropes or a 70 m. The other pitches can be rapped with one 60m. Pitch 2 requires a 10 foot downclimb through an easy chimney if you want to rap it with one 60m.
Submitted by: nieder on 2005-12-05
Route ID: 48294
This is a very mellow and fun climb. P1 is fairly steep, but juggy and easy to protect. P2 and 3 can be linked with a 70 m rope and are varied and fun, with an interesting right to left undercling traverse. P4 is face climbing on fantastic varnished juggy rock. Pure fun. P5 is a bit steeper and finishes with a nice crack, but face holds abound.
I did this climb and forgot to put my trad shoes in my bag so when I got to the start of the climb all i had were my sport climbing muiras. needless to say, my feet were dead by pitch 3 and 4. the last pitch we climbed, i think it was pitch 4, it was like a 70 or 80 ft pitch and i only placed 2 pieces cuz my feet hurt too much to stop and place gear. i still had fun though, and it was a great day