Average Rating : 3.71 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
Karl and Heidi Wilcox
Standard Red Rocks rack with a very small cam or slider nut to protect the start of pitch 5 if you are not comfortable with running it out more than 15 feet on 5.7. Two ropes for the rappel.
Start about 40' - 50' left of "Birdland" in the obvious corner system. The first 3 pitches follow this corner system to the left side of the upper "Birdland" face. The first 3 belays are with gear.
Pitch 1-3: (300'+) Follow the huge corner system. The first two pitches can be run together if you are comfortable with running it out long on the easy stuff, but expect a lot of rope drag if you aren't. The first two pitches have a couple of bulges that keep them rated at 5.7 and fun. The third pitch ascends a super fun chimney that you exit by squeezing behind a chockstone and onto a ledge. Set your belay as far right on the ledge as possible, but extend back out left with the rope as far as possible to save on rope drag around the corner.
Pitch 4: (180') Ascends the main Birdland face to the right of the corner system. There is a bolt on a small white face about 30 feet above the pitch 3 belay. From the bolt go up to a right slanting diagonal ledge/crack system and follow it up 20 feet to just below and left of an overhanging black flake. There the face steepens and you follow solution pockets/holes going straight up. You can protect this section with medium to large cams in the pockets. Head slightly right and climb past another bolt to the bolted station with rap slings attached.
Pitch 5: (95') Climb up and just slightly right from belay. This is where the small cam or slider nut comes in handy if you aren't comfortable with running it out on 5.7 for 15' or more above the belay. Follow discontinuous cracks up and over the small triangular overhanging flake to a small ledge. (Note: Avoid the loose block at the top of this overhang) Climb the white face with a small crack on the left until you reach a small ledge with a bolted belay and more rap slings.
Rappel pitches 5 and 4 to the bolted anchors on pitch 3 of "Birdland." Two ropes are needed to reach the "Birdland" pitch 3 anchors from the top of pitch 4 of "Rawlpindi". Rappel the rest of "Birdland" to the ground.
Submitted by: thirdamigo on 2007-10-13
Route ID: 89617
With Stacy. Ok, nothing special. Appreciated being to the left and out of the way of the traffic on Birdland. I did it in four pitches. 200', then up and through the chockstone (to the right of Little Big Horn), then up some intricate ground past two bolts, the crux pitch, picking out your pro through some interesting varnish (trend right a bit). Last pitch is short and quick. Two raps tie back into Birdland's descent. Not really worth doing unless ticking off all the routes at Red Rocks.
Every pitch of this climb had something fun and interesting. I totally missed the squeeze chimney(not that I was looking forward to it...)--after a fun O/W section on the right of the gully, I took the thin hand crack up the dihedral(rather than trending left back into the gully). Super fun variation but probably stiffer than 5.7 in a spot or two. P4 gave our leader some trouble with routefinding and protection(he got onto some fragile rock to the left of the black flake and sent a belayer slayer hurtling towards us). This pitch might not be a good one for a new leader at the grade. P5 was fun and protected well even without a slider nut(used a tiny cam in the horizontal.)