Sitting on the north side of Pine Creek just past the Brass Wall is a prominent face with a spectacular looking varnished dihedral/roof system- this is Spectrum. Begin at the base of the dihedral, about 30' right and down from Birdland. Pitch 1: Head up the dihedral, breaking right onto the face, then cutting back in to a nice belay ledge. 5.9, 80' Pitch 2: Spooky. Climb up for pro, then down and out across the broken face. Pass the first set of bolts to gain another set. 5.10R, 110' Pitch 3: Head up the corner, stepping left when it suits you, and head to the belay ledge above. 5.7R, 110' Pitch 4: Head up the awesome corner above to a stance. 5.9, 110' Pitch 5: Head right, gain a crack, then head right again when it ends, aiming for a stance just below the roof. 5.7X, 100' Pitch 6: The roof! Fire the roof, then step left to a nice crack and follow it to a stance. 5.11a, 140' Pitch 7: Head up the broken face to the summit. 5.8, 100' Descent: If descending the gully right of Spectrum, keep an eye out for bolts while on the last pitch, as we were unable to find them. Another option is to summit, then downclimb and traverse left for 40' over easy (but unprotectable) terrain to Birdland and rappel that route (70m rope needed or two 50m ropes). This is an excellent and proud line, but not to be underestimated- loose rock is present and good routefinding skills are needed.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2006-04-15
Route ID: 57202
With Jackie from Oz. Her official last climb after 5 months climbing in the lower 48. The route is ok, nothing special. Can be damn cold, corners shadow the wall in late December. We did the traditional route. The 5.10b traverse has just a move or two at that grade then really eases up. The next three pitches go fast and furious. The crux roof still has a huge positive jug to swing up on. We traversed out left and rapped Birdland like most folks appear to be doing, but did see the rap line down and right of the roof. Did not see an obvious rap above the roof. Assume it is in the gully. The gully did have a waterfall effect going in late Nov spraying out onto pitch three.
Amazing line- Josh led through the crux like a champ! Tough, but tons of fun. Although loose rock is present, continued traffic and careful leaders will likely make this climb even more amazing than it already is!