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Crabby Appleton - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.14/5 Average Rating : 3.14 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.25/5
  Rock Quality 3.25/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 2.75/5

Description:

This route is directly across the canyon from Cat in the Hat. To get there, hike up the obvious gulley staying on the right side all the way up to a huge chokestone. Squeeze through and scramble up the right hand wall to get to the base. Traverse right, through heucos, to an obvious vertical crack system. 4 more pitches to the top. Walk off to the right until you come to a huge ramp the heads back to your packs. Fun climbing.

Submitted by: actionfigure on 2004-08-24
Views: 728
Route ID: 57351

9 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2011-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Should Call it Crappy Appleton

The route is not terrible. If you put it in my home town crag it'd be classic but it's not, it's in the world class area of Red Rocks and compared to other routes of the grade in the area with easier access this one just isn't that good. The rock felt friable and although there were unique features the climbing never felt very interesting.

Added: 2011-10-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2010-04-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Crabby Appleton

Don't remember any of the moves warranting 5.9 much less 5.9+. The approach takes longer than the climb. We soloed to the base of the 2nd pitch. Route finding can be a bit tricky to get started . I took the first crack/roof I came to which is fine, but you have to traverse run out ground into the crack to the right. The 4th pitch variation was fun, pulling out of the arch. The 5th pitch was the gem no doubt. Walk off except you can rappel off of a tree to avoid the approach squeeze boulder if you want.

Added: 2010-04-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: peakchaser on 2007-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Crabby Appleton

This was a great climb for me, used a lot of different techniques for the first time....it was scary at some points but what a fun climb.

Added: 2007-08-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2007-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars spicy

spicy at the grade- some good climbing, some spooky climbing- a fun route. not alot of gear, though. note: link the second and third pitches (belay at the bolt & fixed pin, not the single bolt) for a better anchor and belay stance.

Added: 2007-08-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: peakchaser on 2007-08-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Crabby Appleton

What a shame that my partner and I couldn't find this climb yet hiked for so long and free climbed around to try and find it. Went up two chimneys, did some easy 4, 5 class free climbs and because it rained fiercely two days before, there were small waterfalls running that we climbed up alongside of. Who knows...maybe the 5.3 we did and just couldn't figure out what the hell we were doing and we rapped back down nearly to the base. I still had fun during the approach however couldn't appreciate all the dried brush that was cutting me up.

Added: 2007-08-08

... Read all 9 ascent notes