A great route to do when Dark Shadows is occupied!! Climb the first pitch of Dark Shadows to the belay. Move right into the right hand of two crack systems and up to a two bolt anchor. 3rd pitch climbs the blunt arete (black hangers on the bolts), to the Dark Shadows belay. Note: If this last pitch is either too hot (black rock, you know) or too intimidating, it is possible to escape to the second to last belay of Dark Shadows by heading left along a traverse after the second bolt. Goes at about 5.6 or so.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Route ID: 47625
I can see some confusion on this one. One of the posters below is confusing it with Edge Dressing. This route is 5.8-9, not 5.10. The beta above talks about using the Dark Shadows rappel at the top, not true. Straight up the arete is your rap station and from there you can take two straight double rope raps down. The 3rd pitch is more heady than the 2nd. It is exposed and run out. I broke a foot hold on my lead of this pitch. When you run out of bolts, you won't have much more protection and will have a long way to go. Go right whenever the terrain gives it up in the 5.8 range. The crux is a very airy balance move on a thin crumbling foot edge to stand straight up to good fingers on that last pitch. This one move cold be considered above grade to be sure. The black varnish on this wall does peel off maybe changing the composition of the route a bit.
Actually 5.10a, three pitch route. from top of first pitch ( link first and second together) of Dark Shadows, take the right most crack and had up. Watch for loose stuff along the way to a bolted belay under the huge roof.