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Chasing Shadows - 5.10a

Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock (Trad)
G
3
Standard rack, Cams to 4", slings
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.33/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

A great route to do when Dark Shadows is occupied!! Climb the first pitch of Dark Shadows to the belay. Move right into the right hand of two crack systems and up to a two bolt anchor. 3rd pitch climbs the blunt arete (black hangers on the bolts), to the Dark Shadows belay. Note: If this last pitch is either too hot (black rock, you know) or too intimidating, it is possible to escape to the second to last belay of Dark Shadows by heading left along a traverse after the second bolt. Goes at about 5.6 or so.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Views: 671
Route ID: 47625

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: whui1025 on 2010-04-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Only seconded p3 5.8

Nice variation

Added: 2010-04-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sammmy on 2009-05-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars ...

Good stuff. See previous comments below as to the heady nature and rock quality toward the top. Part of Sam and JD's Dark Shadows wall seige of 5.03.09 that is still being talked-about today.

Added: 2009-05-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2009-03-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Chasing Shadows

I can see some confusion on this one. One of the posters below is confusing it with Edge Dressing. This route is 5.8-9, not 5.10. The beta above talks about using the Dark Shadows rappel at the top, not true. Straight up the arete is your rap station and from there you can take two straight double rope raps down. The 3rd pitch is more heady than the 2nd. It is exposed and run out. I broke a foot hold on my lead of this pitch. When you run out of bolts, you won't have much more protection and will have a long way to go. Go right whenever the terrain gives it up in the 5.8 range. The crux is a very airy balance move on a thin crumbling foot edge to stand straight up to good fingers on that last pitch. This one move cold be considered above grade to be sure. The black varnish on this wall does peel off maybe changing the composition of the route a bit.

Added: 2009-03-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: DHART on 2008-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Chasing Shadows

Actually 5.10a, three pitch route. from top of first pitch ( link first and second together) of Dark Shadows, take the right most crack and had up. Watch for loose stuff along the way to a bolted belay under the huge roof.

Added: 2008-09-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: drkodos on 1997-06-10 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 1997-06-10