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Dark Shadows - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.44/5 Average Rating : 4.44 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (25)
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Rock (Trad)
4
Standard trad rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.11/5
  Rock Quality 4.53/5
  Scenery 4.74/5
  Fun Factor 4.68/5

Description:

The first pitch begins on a slab, above a small stream. The third or forth moves are a little funny, smearing and looking for the right pocket...while not wanting to hit the water below...After that its smooth sailing to the first belay. Skip this and combine pitch 1 and 2. Pitch 2 has a little crack climbing...but there are some nice face features and holds inside the crack. Pitch 3 and 4 are mainly following the crack...with some face holds and inside crack holds. Sweet route...cold and wet. Expect the route to be significantly colder than the approach. Bring a jacket! Have fun keeping your rope out of the water when you rappel and pull the rope!

Descent Options:

Rappel or jump.

Submitted by: rock_doctor on 2007-01-24
Views: 1347
Route ID: 82977

25 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jajen on 2012-10-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun route

felt like Gunks 5.7

Added: 2012-11-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Flash Flash ascent by: gochubug on 2012-04-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

When cold and windy, this climb lives up to its name. Swung leads with Ladybug. We combined the first two pitches and did it in 3. She got the money pitch this time.

Added: 2012-04-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: ridgeback on 2011-10-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars 10-12 pitches!

Not sure why the remainder of this route is left out, but we did at least 4-5 more pitches. Awesome route and my first @ RR. Route finding on the descent a little tricky. Note that on the final belay, you'll need a 70m rope! We came up about 20' short of the ground so had to improvise...

Added: 2011-11-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: Bats on 2011-06-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Cool Climb

It was about an hour approach in with the blazing sun out, around 11am. Once there at the base, shade. The first pitch was in the sun. We combined the 1st and 2nd pitches into one. Shade all the way up. Bring some water and snacks during the heat of the day, it will help.
No matter what precautions you make, your rope will get wet. I must improve my trad skills, because I wouldn't mind leading this.

Added: 2011-06-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithiummetalman on 2011-05-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Up

Reason for R, after the 6th pitch, it's easy to get off route leading to fun varied and exciting climbing!

Fun all the way to the top, last 150ft is a bushy and crumbly, so becareful!

Recommended variation, look for a 5.8 offwidth leading to a treeledge, just before the 4th class up, totally worth doing!

The decent down is not too bad, but is long and the gully rappels can be a rope eater! (We had to cut ours!) Plan at least 2-4 hours for the descent out! (We took the South way....)

Added: 2011-05-22

... Read all 25 ascent notes