Supposedly excellent with a really scary last pitch. Start 30' left of Dark Shadows. Pitch 1: Climb straight up the slab from a dry spot below the pool through two bolts with homemade hangers. and then head up and left above the roof to a shallow crack/dihedral. Climb this up to a right leaning ramp and then belay. 5.10, 150' Pitch 2: Climb straight left off the belay to a bolt, up to a second bolt, then left to easier rock. Up a long ways just right of vague arete. Follow this until you're almost even with the giant roof, then step left to belay. 5.11, 120' Pitch 3: Go up and right, following the bolts over the roof. Clip the fourth bolt and go straight up to a fifth. Climb down and right to a hole, then up and back left until you are over the 5th bolt again. Punch it up to an overlap, place gear here (about 30' out from the 5th bolt). Straight up to ledge system, traverse slightly left to belay. 5.10 R, 150'. Rappel the route with two ropes.
Submitted by: jsj42 on 2004-11-10
Route ID: 52233
I thought the first pitch had ground fall potential. The trad gear was poor. The lst pitch was exciting, but not really dangerous. Very runout 5.10 over the big dark shadows roof. You'd take a 100 ft screamer if you blew it. Clean though