4 Pitches of Fantastic 5.10 climbing. Each pitch is 5.10, the third pitch goes at 10+ Start 75 left of Dark Shadows. Climb up the slab, past 2 bolts, to a right facing crack/overlap. Traverse back left to an anchor on a ledge. Then up the obvious and steep shallow dihedral to a hanging belay. From this belay head almost straight left to a bolt with a homemade hanger. After clipping this bolt head straight up(at 5.10+R) until the wall blanks out a bit and traverse back right to an obvious shallow crack/dihedral. There is an anchor at the top of this , however this is the anchor for the route Excellent adventure. Instead traverse back left approximatly 20ft to another shallow dihedral, there is a fixed pin at the bottom of this feature. Continue up abit further to a hanging belay from 2 bolts. The fourth and final pitch continue's up past bolts(no gear on this pitch) to a sloping ledge and the final anchor.
Submitted by: flamer on 2005-10-15
Route ID: 50138
This route is really good. A little heady in a few places but excellent. Had thought of linking it into Dark Shadows but the topo made it look pretty improbably. I think you could do it though. Didn't look like a lot of gear but good rock. Guidebook says 10c which seems about right.
Gets done much less than its popular neighbor, Dark Shadows. Thought-provoking start above a shallow pool leads to four/five more pitches of the same. Typical RR face-climbing, only without bolts. Bring a set of aliens and look for horns to tie off. Never very continuous, but some difficult route-finding.