Start on a ledge about 150' left of Community Pillar. Scramble up to the higher ledge above- begin on the left hand side of the ledge below a small roof at the base of a left facing dihedral with some questionable rock on the righthand side in a chimney. Pitch 1: Despite the look of the rock, the start isnt too bad. Chimney up and out to the lip on large holds. Good pro is present for the obvious crux, and pleasant, yet sustained and steep climbing follows. Belay at a nice ledge. 5.10a, 60'. Pitch 2: Step right into the obvious chimney and work your way upwards for about 40' to a huge belay platform. 5.9, 40'. Pitch 3: Step to the back of the platform and climb the chimney, then step right and climb the beautiful dihedral above to a decent stance near a bush. 5.7, 100'. Pitch 4: A long pitch, but spectacular. Follow the crack system straight up, climbing through a small overhang. When the crack ends, traverse 10' left to gain another crack and follow this to a nice ledge. 5.9, 190'. (Note: A hanging belay is possible just after the traverse) Pitch 5: Instead of heading up the obvious crack above, step far to your left along a ledge system to gain a beautiful dihedral near the back of Community Pillar. This will take you to the top of the Pillar. 5.9, 150'. Descent as per Community Pillar.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-09-17
Route ID: 67929
Led all the pitches with Joe K from Dallas. The first three average pitches were worth it to get on that 4th pitch which definitely utilized the best varnish on Community Pillar (not the route, the pillar itself). Did not have to be told twice to finish on that beautiful 5.9 varnished corner on Honeycomb, that is such a fun pitch and the second visit just as enjoyable as the first, worth the bushwhacking. A 70m rope does the Community Pillar raps no worries, 6 raps total. You do have to do a short 2nd rap and stop on that ledge with the fixed nut and boulder rap config. All in good shape in 2010. Climb Small Purchase once you are down at the bottom, pull the rope on that last rap and it will be stacked at the base of the corner ready to go. Good single pitch for the grade (5.10).
A nice route. After putting up the original line, I came back and put up two new pitches to start the route with a friend by the name of Sandra- both of which are 3-stars on good rock and changed the last pitch to another 3-star pitch, making this climb an absolute must-do for the area! Not to be missed!