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Birthday Party - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock
gear to 4"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

Start on a ledge about 150' left of Community Pillar. Scramble up to the higher ledge above- begin on the left hand side of the ledge below a small roof at the base of a left facing dihedral with some questionable rock on the righthand side in a chimney. Pitch 1: Despite the look of the rock, the start isnt too bad. Chimney up and out to the lip on large holds. Good pro is present for the obvious crux, and pleasant, yet sustained and steep climbing follows. Belay at a nice ledge. 5.10a, 60'. Pitch 2: Step right into the obvious chimney and work your way upwards for about 40' to a huge belay platform. 5.9, 40'. Pitch 3: Step to the back of the platform and climb the chimney, then step right and climb the beautiful dihedral above to a decent stance near a bush. 5.7, 100'. Pitch 4: A long pitch, but spectacular. Follow the crack system straight up, climbing through a small overhang. When the crack ends, traverse 10' left to gain another crack and follow this to a nice ledge. 5.9, 190'. (Note: A hanging belay is possible just after the traverse) Pitch 5: Instead of heading up the obvious crack above, step far to your left along a ledge system to gain a beautiful dihedral near the back of Community Pillar. This will take you to the top of the Pillar. 5.9, 150'. Descent as per Community Pillar.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-09-17
Views: 564
Route ID: 67929

4 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2010-05-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Birthday Party

Led all the pitches with Joe K from Dallas. The first three average pitches were worth it to get on that 4th pitch which definitely utilized the best varnish on Community Pillar (not the route, the pillar itself). Did not have to be told twice to finish on that beautiful 5.9 varnished corner on Honeycomb, that is such a fun pitch and the second visit just as enjoyable as the first, worth the bushwhacking. A 70m rope does the Community Pillar raps no worries, 6 raps total. You do have to do a short 2nd rap and stop on that ledge with the fixed nut and boulder rap config. All in good shape in 2010. Climb Small Purchase once you are down at the bottom, pull the rope on that last rap and it will be stacked at the base of the corner ready to go. Good single pitch for the grade (5.10).

Added: 2010-05-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: vegastradguy on 2007-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Continuous Ascent

great fun- dont miss the Honeycomb exit!

Added: 2007-05-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2005-08-28 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

A nice route. After putting up the original line, I came back and put up two new pitches to start the route with a friend by the name of Sandra- both of which are 3-stars on good rock and changed the last pitch to another 3-star pitch, making this climb an absolute must-do for the area! Not to be missed!

Witnessed by: larryd, raymondjeffrey
Added: 2005-08-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: raymondjeffrey on 2005-07-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Great route! FFA with Larry DeAngelo and John Wilder

Witnessed by: Larry DiAngelo
Added: 2005-07-02