An outstanding climb which should be listed in the classics! Start at the base of an 800' tall crack, underneath a chockstone. Pitch 1: Climb under the chockstone, then behind it on the right side in a tight chimney. Belay on top of the chockstone to deal with any issues. Pitch 2: Ascend the beautiful corner to a nice ledge system. Pitch 3: Head up the 4th class to the base of a chimney. Head up the chimney, then tunnel through the back of it to belay. Pitch 4: Head up the right hand crack into the offwidth above. After the initial difficulties, the climbing eases, but is runout unless large gear is abundant. Pitch 5: The best idea is probably to climb the face outside and left of this rather than the chimney, which is awkward and a bit scary. (Note: A single rope descent is possible from here by climbing up the back of this cave and then rappelling Cartwright Corner) Pitch 6: Head up the back of the cave to easy ground above. A long 200' 4th class pitch leads to the top. Descent: Work your way to your right and south to a rap station atop a scree filled gully. A single rope gets you to the base. From here, work west toward the gully between the Magic Triangle and Community Pillar where a pleasant set of 5 single rope rappels awaits. Variations: The first pitch can be avoided by starting in the Cartwright Corner gully and climbing the crack on the left hand wall at the base (5.8). The fourth pitch offwidth can be avoided by stepping left into a beautiful, but steep handcrack which meets the offwidth at a small belay ledge (5.9)
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-10-02
Route ID: 43130
One of the last 5.8's I had to yet to complete at Red Rocks. Mostly because I had done Honeycomb Chimney and considered it a better route from what I read. Community was actually a better climb than I thought. The first pitch squeeze was a blast, I like that kind of stuff. The back in the chimney climb with a squeeze at top was also a unique setting. I thought the most important beta that could be handed out is to pass the knot below the lip of that full double rope rap, following the descent we used. Did not have time to study much of the descents as it was raining, but by using Radeks notes, I could see a lot of noobs getting their ropes stuck on that double rope rap. Classic rope snag situation in waiting.
Swung leads with Brandon, behind aerili and Joe. The complete lack of bolts was quite refreshing. I led the p4 5.9 (left crack) variation, and this was the best pitch on the route. It's hard, but I definitely recommend it! Squeezing through the hole was a pain in the @#$%@$%@ but still fun!!! :-)