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Dog Police - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 15
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Paul Van Betten, Richard Harrison, Sal Mamusia
Rock (Trad)
G
1
lots of thin stuff, gear to 3"
160
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 4.67/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Probably some of the best 5.10 fingers you'll find in RR. At the mouth of Pine Creek Canyon on the left side, there's an obvious pink corner down low. This route lies to the left of it on a large face of white rock. Not visible from afar, but as you approach it starts to appear. Once you arrive, you can see the amazing splitter hand and finger crack that crawls up the face. Thrash your way up the gully, stepping left when the choice presents itself, then back right up a huecoed face to the belay ledge. Climb the crack to a ledge (possible belay), then continue straight up past a small tree to an anchor with fixed gear left of the large patch of bushes above.

Descent Options:

One rappel with two 60m ropes gets you to the base of the huecoed face.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-03-23
Views: 630
Route ID: 57377

Most Recent Photo

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: DHART on 2008-08-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars doggn it

plan on a long ( 1hr+) uphill, bushwhacking approach on this one. In addition to Needrocks advice-on the rappel go under belay ledge to another flat area and then pull your ropes. After pulling single rope off a tree to get to the trail. You might also want to wear a helmet bushwhacking your way through to the base of the climb. The newer Red Rock book has this as a two pitch climb but you can do it with a single 60m with about 10-20ft left over.

Added: 2008-08-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: needrock on 2008-08-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars amazing crack

this is one of the top crack climbs in red rocks, and NEVER gets done! never gets done probably because of the two hour approach!! the guide book says 20 minutes, but i dont think you could make it there in 20 minutes if you didn't have a pack and were running in winter! also, i suggest bringing four #1 and #0 size metolius cams, and double #2, and #3 metolius cams, along with singles of everything else to bring you to a #3 BD. also, the new book shows that you do the climb in two pitchs, which is definitely possible and fun, but if you have a 70m rope you might want to try it in one pitch, just bring some slings to cut down on rope drag. awesome route though, SO much fun wish i could give it 6 stars.

Added: 2008-08-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2008-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars outstanding

probably the best finger crack i've done at RR. splitter thin hands to an amazing thin crux section. some spicy and weird 5.10 above the ledge, but well protected if you bring small cams (black alien/small nuts) and not too bad once you figure it out.

Added: 2008-03-23