| Safety Rating
Ok since no one has posted clear info on the full ascent I figured I'd chime in.
Climbed the entire route today, as follows.
P1 fairly long, up to the big ledge
P2 belayed from that ledge anchor, didn't relo the belay. Went up to a nice spot 15 feet above the slung tree and belayed from gear anchor
P3 up the steep wall to the slung block anchor
P4 diagonal up and right, clipping first bolt of that 5.10 variation. There's plenty of gear and this alternate is not R rated. This takes you easily to the top of where most people climb in four pitches.
From here we unroped and scrambled obviously up. There's many choices but they probably go to similar spots. You may need to trace back if you go the wrong way, we did once. After a few hundred feet the climbing got steeper so we roped up again.
P5 we did a belay up some easy fifth class to a large tree of top of the ridge. From this belay point you can see the ominous looking red chimney pitch leading to the summit.
From this point you have to scramble over to the base of the chimney and build an anchor. We chose to go to the right side , where nice 12 inch ledges walked across. The exposure is extreme though, there's about a thousand feet of air next to that little walkway, and you do need to make a few climbing moves. I think most parties will want to belay this pitch also
P6 the chimney pitch. Starts Up into the squeeze chimney (packs are absolutely no go here). After about 10 feet of chimney work you can stem out onto the face and start climbing up again. Do not stay in the chimney. The final bolted anchor is up at the top of the climbers left textures face.
The descent we used was the rap route down the steep gully. Cairns lead to it. There's some very large prominent cairns where it begins. Five total rappels.