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Out of Control - 5.10d

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
Premier Sponsor:
R. Grandstaff, D. Anderson (p1); P Van Betten, R. Harrison, S. Mamusia (p2)
Rock (Trad)
2
gear- doubles in most, triples in off fingers/thin hands, and two big cams.
250
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.20/5
  Rock Quality 4.80/5
  Scenery 4.40/5
  Fun Factor 4.80/5

Description:

Sitting on a large ledge high up on the right hand side of Pine Creek canyon is a spectacular looking crack through a large roof. This is Out of Control. Pitch 1: Climb the crack through a bulge and then a roof above to the anchors. 5.10c, 120' Pitch 2: Climb the crack up and left to the top of the cliff. 5.10d, ? Most only do the first pitch.

Descent Options:

Descent: Rap from the top of pitch 1 with two ropes or work your way off the cliff by heading up canyon.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2006-12-23
Views: 573
Route ID: 57228

9 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 9 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2013-11-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Out of Control

With Danny Urioste. This is one of the better single pitch crack climbs in Red Rock. From fingers to hands to fists to even an arm bar assisted by a heel-toe. What a diverse crack. Two cruxes. The flaring pod below the roof protects with a C4#3 which steals a solid fist away and requires a few technical off-width moves. The roof above has hands underneath, but when you go to pull it, takes a bit to figure it out. Feet are not obvious nor real positive. Your right hand can make a great grab deep in allowing you to secure a decent finger lock high above and heave on up to your knees at least. Awkward move. Fantastic crack complimented with several other good pitches nearby. I recommend a triple from .5-2, double to 3, single 4. Set up for a single 70m.

Added: 2013-11-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2009-03-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome Route!!

This was an amazing climb which requires a full range of crack techniques to climb. The roof section at the end of p1 was awesome!! Easily rappelled with a single 70m rope.

Added: 2009-04-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: DHART on 2008-05-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars out of control

funstuff

Added: 2008-06-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: needrock on 2008-05-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars out of control

holy bat crap robin!!! this out is out of control!

Added: 2008-05-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2006-12-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars awesome!

tough stuff, a real test of overall ability- gotta have it in everything from off fingers to offwidths, and then there's a roof at the end!

Added: 2006-12-23

... Read all 9 ascent notes