gear- doubles in most, triples in off fingers/thin hands, and two big cams.
Sitting on a large ledge high up on the right hand side of Pine Creek canyon is a spectacular looking crack through a large roof. This is Out of Control. Pitch 1: Climb the crack through a bulge and then a roof above to the anchors. 5.10c, 120' Pitch 2: Climb the crack up and left to the top of the cliff. 5.10d, ? Most only do the first pitch.
Descent: Rap from the top of pitch 1 with two ropes or work your way off the cliff by heading up canyon.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2006-12-23
Route ID: 57228
With Danny Urioste. This is one of the better single pitch crack climbs in Red Rock. From fingers to hands to fists to even an arm bar assisted by a heel-toe. What a diverse crack. Two cruxes. The flaring pod below the roof protects with a C4#3 which steals a solid fist away and requires a few technical off-width moves. The roof above has hands underneath, but when you go to pull it, takes a bit to figure it out. Feet are not obvious nor real positive. Your right hand can make a great grab deep in allowing you to secure a decent finger lock high above and heave on up to your knees at least. Awkward move. Fantastic crack complimented with several other good pitches nearby. I recommend a triple from .5-2, double to 3, single 4. Set up for a single 70m.