A very nice climb, a little different than the nomal face climb.
I lead the first pitch and Mark lead the next two. There are epoxied rap rings at the top that one can rap to the epoxied rap rings at the top of pitch one with two 60 meter ropes. Only problem is that the rope wants to funnel into a rope eating crack just a few feet below the top. The 50' pitch 3 is rated 5.6, but has a couple moves about 10 feet from the top that are more lilke 5.9. The second pitch is at least 120 feet, not the 100 feet listed in the Handren guide book.
This route is a good one or escaping a southwesterly wind. Didn't take up a #4 but could have easily used one, if not doubles of #3. Hexes come in handy if you have them. If you go left at the top of the corner on the 3rd pitch, there are about two burly 5.8+ moves(with good gear) before you make your way right to the anchor station. Be aware that although this climb is a casual 5.7 for most of it's length, there is a 5.8/5.9 crux on that 3rd pitch, no matter which way you go. We cleaned some bailer gear someone left in the crack slot of the righthand variation below the anchors(the wide slot), probably left by someone who took the route rating at face value. I led odds. Double rope rap from top station, skipped intermediate station at top of P2, single 60m rope rap from station atop P1.
Fun climb. 3rd pitch was tougher for me, the last move felt more like 5.9 with no holds, ended up doing the small overhang to the right. Attempted to get jberthiaume's wired nut but it was too stuck, still there for the taking ;) Backed up the rap ring on the second pitch.
Considering this was my first multi pitch it was really enjoyable. I did lose one piece of gear and a caution to anyone who climbs this route. There is a rope that is cutoff in a crack on the third pitch. My rope even got caught in there as well and i had to climb up the third pitch a second time to get my rope un-stuck. The next person to climb the third pitch if they can get my nut out will inheret a size 9 wild country nut.