An excellent, varied, chimney climb. Start in the obvious chimney to the right of Group Therapy and to the left of the large cleft in the main wall. Pitch 1: Cruise up the pocketed face, past a small roof. Pass an old bolt, and continue up to an alcove for belay (crack in the back takes medium gear) 5.7, 150' Pitch 2: Chimney straight up for about 30 feet (big bro goes here) from the top of the chimney, exit right and wander up and right to belay. 5.7R, 80'. Pitch 3: From belay, head straight up the thin crack and past a roof, continue straight up, working the offwidth and face, eventually passing another roof by moving right and up. Go up to a small tree and belay. 5.7, 150' Pitch 4: Head straight up for almost a full rope length, belaying about 20' from the end of a long chimney. 5.6, 180' Pitch 5: Either head straight up, or you can exit left and traverse and exit via the Group Therapy 5.8 exit variation. 5.7-5.8, 120'
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-07-28
Route ID: 17184
Better than Tunnel Vision, but not near as good as Stilgar's Wild Ride or Pureblind Pillar. The honeycomb chimney (1st pitch) is unique rock, easy for the grade. 2nd pitch has a small amount of true chimney which is fun. A decent 3rd pitch up a corner/crack. Long easy 4th pitch. Fun pull, but on suspect rock, at the end if you take the direct finish for the 5th pitch. Can scramble off to the left and finish up Stilgars if you would rather not. With Neil from ID.
Fun climb. Liked the chimney bit on Pitch 2. Looks very daunting, but climbs easily. Guide books suck on this description. Two of our books said it was only 4 pitches long. Definitely 5 though. Great climb! Last chimney/roof section sure is difficult though! Easily 5.9 if you go straight through. But can be skipped by traversing left or right.