Above and slightly left of Ragged Edges is a beautiful, short, right facing corner. Approach from the top of Ragged Edges following the somewhat obvious trail. Consider roping up for the last 20' of the approach, as it is probably 5th class. Belay at the base of a giant corner underneath a small overhang. Rope up and climb up to the offwidth crack above, then move right into the corner. Power up the corner to a nice stance (variation). Rest up and then continue up the corner to the base of a large roof. From here, step left around the corner and move straight up for a couple moves, then step right to a two bolt anchor w/ rap rings. A single rope rappel will get you to the base of the approach below the 5th class. Variation: If the imposing corner is too much for your taste, step left from the stance and cruise up and left to a shared anchor (5.9).
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2006-04-02
Route ID: 18580
One of the better single crack pitches for the grade at RR and definitely the best climb at Willow Springs. I would prefer 3 C4#3's next time...where the crack overhangs the hands get large/fist. Just a short straight in section for me, no layback. A C4 #2 or 3 protects the traverse left below the roof. Huge jugs await, exposed, but easy last moves. Stout for RR 5.10a. With Peter S.
WAY better than what the book says. single rack to BD #5, and triple BD#3. defintely follow the roof out right, way easier than it looks. had to bail first try because i didn't have enough large pieces.