An outstanding route put up by the master of the offwidth, Joe Herbst. This is an absolute Red Rocks classic that requires proficiency in almost every type of climbing to get up- including some wide crack skills. To get to this route, park in the first parking lot at Willow Springs and head out on the trail head to the falls. When it forks shortly after you begin, head left and follow the trail for about a quarter mile or so, heading south. When you come about even with the turnoff from the loop road, you'll see a large boulder on your right and hopefully a cairn on your left. Look for a faint trail heading up and right. On the cliff band above, you should see a huge corner capped by a large roof (this is the top of the route). Head up the trail to the base of the cliff- a neat little tunnel in a cave leads to the base. Start on the left side of a large cave in a flaring corner. Pitch 1: Work your way up the flared chimney to a roof/slot above. Pull through the slot and belay above on a nice ledge. 40', 5.9+ Pitch 2: Move belay up to a nice alcove at the base of the large corner. Climb the corner until you come to the roof. Climb out and left underneath the roof along good holds until you can pull over onto a nice ledge with a rap station. 5.9, 50-100' Descent: Rappel twice with a single rope or walk off to the west.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-04-11
Route ID: 56352
A route you will not stop thinking about for a loooong time to come. Could not onsight p1 -- very tough just below the roof! I think I have led 10b's which about the same or easier. P2 is totally different but divine in its own right. Easier to onsight, around 5.9. Take some C3s and small nuts for p1 and some 2s, 3s, and a #5 for p2.
Fun route, chill day with the Mrs. Great to combine with the routes at Hidden Falls. A space move below the first pitch bulge is the crux. You can stem through the bulge by first moving left, then back right to opposing walls. The 2nd pitch is definitly worth doing, save a 4-5" for placing in the roof to protect your traverse out left.
Had to hang and rest at crux after repeatedly beating on a stuck nut that was clipped but wasn't my partner's. He told me earlier but I forgot. Oooops. My bad. Second pitch was smooooth sailing, or liebacking. Fun climb!