Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
gear to 3", 4" optional
A rarely done classic- this mental testpiece ascends the small buttress located above the waterfall in the Hidden Falls area. Approach via the gully just past Left Out/Black Track. Pitch 1: Start 10' below a short (10') right facing dihedral in black varnish. Climb the dihedral, then head to the crack above. Follow this to a horizontal, then head right to a bush. From the bush, up to a bolt, then through the bulge. Belay on a ledge. 5.10, 160' Pitch 2: Up the crack a little ways, then out right to a bolt, gain the arete, clip another bolt, then head up, then right, passing a third bolt. Gain the obvious dihedral and follow it to the top. 5.11a, 120' Pitch 3: Traverse right a ways until a weakness allows you to head up and through a ledge/dihedral system. Once on the ledges, head left, eventually going up at a bolt. Follow the slab up to a set of bolts above. Clip them, then up again to another bolt, then climb up and right to the obvious right leaning dihedral system. Follow this up to the summit. 5.10, 180'
Rap with two ropes- leave the 2nd rope @ the bolts on the 3rd pitch.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2009-11-12
Route ID: 56896
bring your A-game on this one. doubles of blue/yellow/orange metolius allow casual linking of the last two pitches. also, leave the trail line at the bolts- a single 60m will get you off the summit back to the last set of bolts.
be a solid 5.10 climber on some tricky-runout gear placements before jumpin in. Can link together second and third pitch ( build anchors) to belay just below anchors for last pitch-clip and keep moving to the top.
this route is very fun! you need to be a solid 5.11 climber for sure though. i'm not sur eif i would give this route a 5.11c rating, more like 5.11a, but all the pitches are a little sketchy and smooth. you can link the last two pitches as one to do this climb in three pitches. three raps from the top bring you back to the starting ledge. you need to build your own anchor at all three belay spots.
This route is very fun and I don't think it gets done very much. I thought the least contrived line was up the arete on the crux pitch instead of up the face to the right--this keeps the grade at 5.10. My partner broke a hold on the traverse and took a pretty healthy swing! The last pitch is very fun.