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Ain't No Saint - 5.10c

Average Rating = 1.00/5 Average Rating : 1.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock
Gear
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 1.00/5

Description:

This route starts just left of Sain Stephen near the middle of the south face of Windy Peak. Start in a low-angle gully a the bast of a corner system (See Swain for topo). Pitch 1: Climb up the corner and face until the corner veers left. Head up the face to the top of the corner system, then go up and left to a large ledge with a bush. (5.8 PG) Pitch 2: Head right up a ramp to a left-leaning crack/off-width. Climb the crack to its top. (5.9) Pitch 3: Follow bolts out right to another crack system. Climb this to the base of a corner that leads up to a small roof. (5.10a) Pitch 4: Climb the corner and pull the roof. Stay in the crak and veer right when possible. Continue up the crack to a ledge below a hand crack. (5.10a) Pitch 5: Climb the crack/seam up through a ceiling with a corner. Continue up to the roof. Step right when possible and continue up the face to a ledge with a pine tree. (5.10c) Pitch 6: Go up and left on slabs (5.7) Pitch 7: Continue to the top. (5.2) Descent: Walk off west (See Jubilant Song for more detail.)

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2003-02-13
Views: 280
Route ID: 32385

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2010-01-31 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars Ain't No Saint

With Joe. When is he going to learn to say no to my route selection. He is a good sport, knowing that I am trying to tick off all of Red Rocks. In all fairness, I have done several of the lessor known Windy Peak routes and found most of them interesting and decent. This route is the rare one star out of five for me rating wise. The 2nd crack off width pitch was pretty good. But the 4th pitch, which was the first real challenge of the climb, although decent rock, posed a deck fall for the first several 5.10 moves before pro. The roof pull was pretty cool, but then bad and wet rock out right to finish the pitch. The 5th pitch, again, bad decking potential on the crux move of the climb...once through that, in the winter, the 5.10 seam is full of running water. You can descend and move to the right and ascend the chimney/off width for 200' to the Pine Tree. The last pitch (7th) was all running water, so we ventured left up a V shaped, water full, chimney. Not a good winter route. Not a worthy route in general.

Added: 2010-02-01