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Hot Fudge Thursday - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.86/5 Average Rating : 3.86 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Rock
G
7
Lots of medium/small passive pro, cams to #3.5. All belays are bolted with brand new bolts.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 3.83/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

A Red Rocks Classic. This route ascends the main wall next to Jubilant Song. Start at the lowest point you can on the shelf, about 400' right of Jubilant Song at a black varnished face. Pitch 1: Follow the thin crack (good pro) up and right for about 165' to two new bolts. 5.8 Pitch 2: Tough pitch. Head straight up, passing an old bolt and an old two bolt anchor, continue up, eventually stepping right and following the new bolts up to a nice ledge with a bolted anchor, 165', 5.9 Pitch 3: Cross the apron to your left, passing two good bolts. Climb up the crack to where it widens. Mantel below the bolt. Clip the bolt and traverse left 10', and follow that crack straight up to a nice bolted belay, passing one good bolt on the way. 170', 5.8 Pitch 4: Go straight up for a rope length to a bolted belay. 5.6 Pitch 5: Go up and slightly left across really thin stuff (watch for loose rocks!) past two bolts and a lip to the last belay (bolted). 110' 5.9 Pitch 6: Go left toward the bolt with the orange runner on it. (If you dont like the 5.9 move, use the runner to)pull the corner and head left from the bolt to a nice little corner. Climb the corner, then walk over to a ramp on your right. Climb the ramp to the summit. This pitch is approx 130' and 5.5, with the move across from the bolt being 5.9. This route is probably not a good route for the beginning 5.9 leader, but is a great route for those more experienced!

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-12-06
Views: 627
Route ID: 32387

11 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sherrilewis on 2010-11-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Thin, heady fun!

Extras of tiny cams and tcu's help to mitigate some of the runouts, but still a few heady sections on thin varnish and/or fragile rock keep the excitement high.

Added: 2010-11-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: aerili on 2010-01-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Okay route

Good option for cold winter days: all south-facing and somewhat arduous approach and descent. Route works your feet with the slab; the exception is the start of p3--very steep off the chimney. Swapped leads on this route in blocks and we were able to do the entire outing quickly but without rushing, despite a not-early start. Beautiful descent; those remote backcountry canyons in RR always yield amazing sandstone colors.

Added: 2010-01-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jackwill on 2009-03-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Windy

They don't call it windy for nothing. Gust to 40 knots.

Added: 2009-03-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: needrock on 2008-01-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars hot fudge

great route! the view from the top is well worth the grueling hike to teh start of the climb. gret route for a day of big wall in the winter.

Added: 2008-01-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2007-12-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Hot Fudge

With Dow Williams, a very good and seldom climbed route. Many fixed anchors expedite climbing. Led the odd pitches, swapping with Dow Williams.

Added: 2008-01-18

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