Stoppers and cams to a #3.5 camalot (Aliens come in handy!)
A classic climb that hardly anyone does. Well worth the trip out there. Start directly below the giant roof on the left hand of two prominent crack systems. Pitch 1: Follow the crack to a large ledge with a tree (5.7) Pitch 2: Continue up the crack to a ledge with a large brown flake on it (5.7) Pitch 3: Pull past the flake (fun!) and head up and right to a small ledge 100' below the roof and about 30' below a ledge with a large bush on it (5.5) Pitch 4: Step right and climb up to about 30' below the large roof where you'll find a small ledge with a chockstone nearby for belay (5.6) Pitch 5: The roof traverse. Traverse across the roof to a left facing corner where you can assemble a hanging belay with some smaller gear (Blue and Green aliens used here). Pitch 6: The crux pitch. Pull the overhang (be careful!) and follow the corner up to a nice ledge with a large bush for an anchor. (5.8) Pitch 7: Head up the chimney to a large tree, then step right into the waterstreak. Follow the waterstreak up to a nice ledge on your left. (5.7) Pitch 8: From here, step back into the waterstreak and head to summit. (5.7+) Variations: 1)You can avoid the crux roof if you continue right on the traverse and head up to the belay ledge mentioned for pitch 6, although it looks a little sketchy. 2) You can avoid the final pitch by heading left off the ledge and following a nice book up to the summit (5.5). Descent: The easiest way off (i.e. no butt sliding) is to basically head north and west until you reach the saddle that separates Windy Peak from Mud Spring Canyon. From here, you make a left and follow the gully down, cutting left at a large flat boulder and then between two ridges to end up back at the base of the route.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-12-06
Route ID: 32207
May be a little overhyped. I have done a good amount of RR classics and this climb has only two good pitches. We did the climb as 5 pitches combining 1&2, 4&5, 6&7 with a 70m rope (1&2 is still a stretcher). Did not do the final waterstreak as it was wet but it looks interesting. Bring a #2 BD nut to have any kind of pro for the thin move above and right of the roof on P5.
I led p's 2, 4, 5. This route has been on my list for a while--I am a Joe Herbst fan--and I was not disappointed. It was fun to stay in the widening crack on the second pitch (escape onto the face was an option). The roof traverse starts out "mellow"(ie, decent holds and reasonable pro where you want it) though still heady due to the sheer scale of the thing. I stayed high on it for most of it's length(only one spot felt run out to me) and dropped down just before the smaller roof where most folks build the hanging belay. Rope drag was not an issue as I had used long slings, so I pulled this small roof(spicy!) and continued up the thin corner, linking p4 and p5. My partner finished up the last two pitches(we exited before the final section of water streak because of we weren't excited about fall potential it posed). We did this climb on a cloudy, 60 degree day with wind gusts of 29mph; we climbed and belayed in our puffy coats and hats and were never uncomfortably cold. Approach took 1.5 hrs, climb took 5hrs, descent took 1hr(in the daylight), walk back to the car in just under 1 hour(daylight). Be sure to watch for the cairns on both the descent and trail back to the car. Very helpful.