An interesting and spicy route that lies between Ain't No Saint and Saint Stephen. The crux pitch is well protected with small to medium gear. Begin about 50' right of Ain't No Saint at an obvious crack system. Pitch 1: Follow the crack up to gain the main ledge system at the base of Windy Peak. 100', 5.8 Pitch 2: 4th class up and right to a chimney. Pitch 3: Climb the chimney to a ledge below an obvious crack, 60', 5.8 Pitch 4: Gain the crack from the right hand side and follow it to a nice ledge. 120', 5.10 Pitch 5: Follow the obvious 4th class gully up past a boulder, then begin working your way left to gain the bottom of a second crack system. 180', 5.6 Pitch 6: Ascend the crack system to just below a bulge, then step left and gain a comfortable ledge. 120', 5.6 Pitch 7: Go up to the roof above, then step left to avoid it. Continue up and somewhat right, following the path of least resistance and eventually belaying in a chimney in the water streak. 5.8+, 170' Pitch 8: Continue up the chimney until it ends. From here, step right and follow the ledge system across to a hanging stance just before a small white buttress. 100', 5.6 Pitch 9: Step left around the buttress and then step left again to 4th class to the summit. 70', 4th class.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2006-03-25
Route ID: 75363