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Western Swing - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Doubles to 3", gear to 7", ballnutz are useful
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5


Although the route is a bit gear intensive, its striking line makes it an irresitable challenge for those who frequent the canyon. Just to the right of Jubilant Song is a magnificent 300' corner system that arches to the right underneath the main roof of Jubilant Song. This is the route. Start at the base of the corner. Pitch 1: Head up the corner and belay at a nice ledge. 5.7, 100' Pitch 2: Head up and left to the corner and follow it to a tree. Step left onto the face, and then step back right into the corner above the tree and belay. 5.8, 80' Pitch 3: The money pitch. Head up the chimney above, following the corner as it arcs over. Belay just after a strenuous lieback section begins. 5.10, 100' Pitch 4: Unfortunately, the rock above deteriorates, so instead, traverse right along decent edges to a shallow dish. From here, climb up to a shelf, then head up the slot above. Good rock, decent pro, and wonderfully exposed moves make this section memorable. At the top of the corner, head up and left and join up with Jubilant Song below the large roof above. 5.9, 150' Pitches 5-8: Continue up Jubilant Song to the summit.

Submitted by: larryd on 2005-06-22
Views: 578
Route ID: 64955

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2009-12-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Western Swing

I like this route as well as Song and a Dance. Larry added a couple of winners here in 2005. Folks need to break away from the herd and try some of these recent additions vs making tracks for the 5.7 Jubilant Song, over and over. I combined the 3rd and 4th pitches and that is a rope stretcher/dragger to be sure. A bit of simul climbing is needed if you set up belay right after the bush on pitch 2, but you can set it just a tad higher to not have to simul climb if you want to combine these two. The crux move of exiting the chimney, moving up the finger crack and then out across the face to the weakness really involved some fun thoughtful climbing. The chimney portion is quite flared vs parallel. Tougher climbing than Epinephrine for example. I suggest you finish on Jubliant vs the dirty crack exit to the bandstand ledge. That means you are doing the last four pitches of Jubliant which can be easily combined into three. First two pitches not great, but the route is worth doing for sure. Chimney, roof, good features. A little run out on the traverse across the face to reach the weakness above on pitch 4. Suppose that is where he used some sliding ball nuts.

Added: 2009-12-17

  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: needrock on 2008-01-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars western swing

the last pitch of this route is well worth the first two easy pitches. the rap from the top down to the gully was a little sketchy but it turned out fine.

Added: 2008-01-20

Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2005-03-25 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

FA: Larry DeAngelo and John Wilder on 3.25.05. What a great route- really serious at the grade- this is not a beginners 5.10. Aiding through the crux is possible if you find yourself stumped.

Witnessed by: larryd
Added: 2005-03-25