Furthest left dome from main overlook, looks like it has a huge saddle separating 2 east-facing domes. Approach from north, walk to NE corner and start under large overhang. Climb crack or bolted slab to anchors (5.8, 150'). Next is 4th class to large crack on right, then up and left on crack to stance at bottom of large crack (5.6, 200'). Climb up and left on horizontal crack to gain vertical hand-sized crack. Continue to wide crack and ledge (5.9, 150'). Lieback left around rounded and gritty corner to easier rock and top (5.8, 100'). Walk south to main saddle and look for trees below and left as you look down. Rap off trees with double ropes; 4th class north along slab to exposed block; rap off fixed sling. Downclimb slab.
The bolted slab was put up in April 2004 and named Tough Shiites and rated 5.7. The crack to the right is mostly fourth class, with a couple of 5.2 moves. it was named Chemical Ali, the main feature of which is Saddam's Spiderhole on the first pitch.
Submitted by: dood on 2006-04-25
Route ID: 73269