A three pitch route that starts right of Slab of Flab. Head up, then a bit right, and straight up to anchor. The next two pitches are .11a and each pitch requires a second line to rappel, including the first pitch. This route gets stars in both guide books.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-07-06
Route ID: 55540
This is a great route with excellent rock first two pitches The first pitch crux felt about 11 C to me. The second pitch crux through a roof was much harder-maybe two letter grades. Did something break? The third pitch rock deteriorated some, and there was an ankle breaker area.
I found the first pitch to be quite challenging for 11c. The climbing was incredibly varied however, with a wonderfully fun slab start (6 bolts or so), a very cool cruxy bulg section with heal hooks, followed by overhang and stemming. I finally got the red point on my third go, but I would probably call this a 12a or so, especially given the endurance required. The first pitch requires 17 draws!!!!