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Toe Crack *** - 5.7

Average Rating = 4.41/5 Average Rating : 4.41 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 12
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (28)
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Rock
Standard granite rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.14/5
  Rock Quality 4.64/5
  Scenery 4.21/5
  Fun Factor 4.64/5

Description:

The second pitch of Repulsion, this is often done on its own right. Toe Crack is the best jam crack of its grade on the cliff.

Submitted by: slobmonster on 2004-07-02
Views: 1794
Route ID: 38501

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28 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: scoobydoo030 on 2011-09-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Toe Crack

Did this by itself after climbing up the standard routes first pitch. This is an awesome crack with more then enough pro.

Added: 2011-10-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: DavidEast on 1999-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars nice

you can lead a pitch below to the base of the toe crack separate. I prefer to do the whole thing as one long pitch with a 60m rope; just watch your rope drag if you do. The toe crack itself is solid. There are a couple good rests for placing pro; I prefer lowe tricams on this route. Have the second drag another rope, you'll need to tie the ropes together to rap all the way down. Be careful pulling the ropes, saw a guy get his rope hung up when the knot wedged in the top of toe crack. That accounted for I think my third lead of the route retrieving his rope for him. hahahaha... oh well :) bastard could've at least bought me a beer in N. Conway.

Added: 2011-08-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: nkane on 2010-05-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice crack

probably not a good idea for a new 5.7 leader. you can traverse into the third pitch of Thin Air by climbing up a block in the chimney, then doing a totally unprotected 35' 5.5 traverse on edges.

Added: 2010-05-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: gathompson1 on 2009-07-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice Climb

Nice long crack with great Jams!

Added: 2010-02-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: jaablink on 2009-07-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

***

Added: 2010-02-11

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