Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Ordinary trad rack with a few extra double slings for trees/bushes at key points
The last pitch of the route passes through a light colored section of the darker face, like foam on a latte.
Bushwack rightwards off Liberty trail approx 100 feet past Liberty Cabin to first ledge, rope-up good pro. More rightwards bushwhacking to another ledge, solo that. More rightwards bushwhacking to right-running, roped traverse. Bushwhack rightwards to cove in the base of the final two pitches. Runnell cracks to blocks. Exit Blocks Left to runnout on easy ground to thin overlap for pro. Continue slightly right up a smooth granite gully to flat top, right side pro in gully.
Trails system, can be confusing. Study hikers map carefully!
Submitted by: robrox on 2010-06-11
Last Modified: 2010-06-17
Route ID: 105278
A friend and I had started on the South Face 200 feet above the start of this line and went a different way to the top at the traverse. Determined to find more interesting and longer pure rock sections I returned to the South face a year and a month later. I stayed at the Pennacook Shelter so my appraoch was not entirely via the Liberty Trail.
I bushwhacked a few minutes above the Jim Liberty Cabin to a 30-meter face. Rope soloed that at 5.3 and from the top I got a look at brush and faces above.
Pushed through the brush to reach a third class ledge. Walked right to the base of an 8 meter 5.4 wall below the first real climbing. Bouldered that and bushwhacked to the next wall to set the anchor for a right running 5.7 horizontal crack traverse at or beyond vertical. Some small trees were slung above the greatest exposure just before the crux transition to a more rising traverse. One solid piece after that to a runout before the next two pieces. The pitch finished with a 5.5 mantle to the blueberries and around a dead tree (35 feet past a #4 stopper). The pitch used 55 meters of rope.
A short rightwards bushwhack gained the base of the ChocoLatte face. The start was very exciting as I couldn't see any pro and it was 5.7 or better for 20 feet. Good pro was found at 20 feet, followed by 50 meters of 5.5 in runnel cracks on very slabby ground to gain good anchors below a blocky overhang.
The last pitch began with a scramble over the blocky bits, with one pinch slung for pro above the anchor and ran out another 35 feet to a thin overlap at the base of the Latte section. A fall would have been bad but it was easy walking on a sun dappled slab to the overlap crack, where I got in a TCU. It remained very easy walking to the top of the crag with three pieces over the last 30 meters.