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Loose Lips - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 32
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Rock (Trad)
G
1
Small rack to .5, mostly nuts. Can take a bigger cam to 1 inch towards the end.
140
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 3.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

From the top of Ethereal Buttress, make a step (leap) of faith across. Climb past three bolts (crux), downstep left and then follow the thin flake up and left across the top of Beezlebub's p. 2 overlap.

Descent Options:

1 double rope rap.

Submitted by: ericontherocks on 2007-05-16
Views: 597
Route ID: 3311

11 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: blueeyedclimber on 2011-07-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Real nice route!

Start is a little heady but with good moves. Then finish up a long thin crack.

Added: 2011-07-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jaablink on 2009-11-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars ***

may have been hit by rockfall in Dec. 2009

Added: 2010-02-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rocknice2 on 2007-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun FUn FUN

This is a great pitch. Combine with Seventh Seal. A real must do.
The leep is a liitle scary but the hold is a good one.
The crux move is getting real slippery.
The crack has fun moves bomber gear and good exposure.

Added: 2007-05-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2007-05-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Loose Lips

An excellent route, one of the best cragging lines around when linked with Seventh Seal.
Tip: use a double length runner on the high 4th bolt (off route) and double ropes to protect a follower. Takes good small nuts.

Added: 2007-05-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: alpinestart on 2006-04-04 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-04-04

... Read all 11 ascent notes