An excellent four-pitch climb almost straight up a brilliant white streak. Start a hundred feet left of the Standard Route arch. p. 1 Paddle up easy rock (5.2) with little to no pro and belay at two bolts just right of the small right facing arch. p. 2 Climb to a fixed piece fifteen feet above the belay and pass two right-facing arches easily on the right. p. 3 An interesting and varied pitch. Step up and left towards the left-facing corner, get some gear and enjoy nice laybacking (5.5). Make a few smears up and fully into the white streak, getting small pro (pink tricam) and finger holds on beautiful crystal pockets. Belay at two bolts. p. 4 Continue up the white streak (stay on it and avoid the corner/roof) and surmount it at a bulge. Below the bulge is a hidden fixed piece in a left-facing corner that can be backed up with a stopper. Step up the bulge (5.7) on big face holds and grab a gorgeous nose of granite, clip the bolt, and run it out. Finish up towards the tree (5.7, original route) or over the final overlap to two bolts (5.8) Descent: Four double rope rappels straight down the route.
Submitted by: lucander on 2005-10-04
Route ID: 3330
This climb seemed overrated. The first two pitches had nothing to them (including protection!) and the last two, while in a nice spot, involved very straightforward liebacking and slab moves. Kind of fun, but not an all-time classic like the guide says (though it was written by the first ascensionist)
great climbing. on the last pitch i didn't go far enough right. instead i headed accidentally towards the bolt i saw slightly to the left above the overlap. turns out that was the the end of the Squirting Dog (5.9). tricky move to pull the overlap. seemed more like a 5.10, or maybe it was the heat and chalk in my eye. = )