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sw dihedral - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
Cracks take gear from small nuts to #4 Camalot...Tricams...bring tricams!
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Gain base by rap or ascending scree in Lion's Head Gully. Moist alcove offers 5.9 start above scant protection. Next section very easy getting to 5.6 as the slight twist in the dihedral starts. Some 5.7 stemming required above. Delicate 5.8+ exit or grunge exit left, neither exit offers easy pro. Belay beneath the slender, SW pointing, diving board rock.

Descent Options:

4th class up to reach the Lion's Head Hiking trail. Turn right to descend to Tuckerman Ravine Trail

Submitted by: robrox on 2007-09-05
Views: 514
Route ID: 88305

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: robrox on 2007-07-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Onsight rope-solo

Bushwhacked a bit, then crossed massive boulder field to reach Lion's Head Gully. Ascended loose scree to base and bushwhacked beneath one short climb to reach the wet alcove beneath the longer dihedral. Tough start, then very easy to delicate face work amidst some loose. Midway, I found some stemming in ruggosities w/o positive holds, very secure with excellent pro. Loose flakes and rocks on belay ledge beneath diving board.

Added: 2007-09-05