Start at left end of Duet Buttress near some recent rockfall (2011). This is the last major buttress before getting to Whitney Gilman Ridge.
p. 1 Climb a series of cracks trending up and right past an old pin to a stance with fixed nuts & hexes (110 ft). p. 2 Move up a ramp above the belay, then escape right across a horizontal crack around the front of the buttress to a stance. Follow the crack up and right to a stance on a rubble covered ledge. Best to stop here and belay so that your rope does not run across recent rockfall debris. This pitch will take gear up to a #6 Camalot, but smaller pieces can be found. (110 ft.) p. 3 Climb up and left across an easy ramp to a ledge. Third class left, then look below your feet for rappel bolts. The route continues to the top across vertical vegetables, most stop here and descend.
Double rope rap from the bolted anchor. Resist the temptation to toprope Duet Direct - this kind of bad form belongs at Rumney
Submitted by: lucander on 2011-07-07
Route ID: 109288
Lots of fun, worth doing if Whitney G is crowded or if you just want to explore. The moves on p. 7 are slopey and a little awkard. Be careful to protect your second on p. 2 because they could swing out right onto the blank face.