8 pitches following a brilliant line.
p. 1 Reppy's. Can't miss this one, follow the crack, step left, and proceed up and right to the only bolted belay on the route (190 ft)
p. 2 wander straight up with one off move (5.7) to a good belay ledge under the triangular roof.
p. 3 Pull the roof at the crack (5.8) and wander up and right to a belay next to the left facing corner.
p. 4 Climb the corner past an old peg and follow another right facing corner (5.7) to another good belay ledge.
p. 5 Wander up to the sickle, tie it off and go (5.7). The finger of fate is above, belay at its right side on a great ledge.
p. 6 Climb the fickle finger (figure it out yourself), step across to a slab. Hit a ledge and walk left 30 feet (5.6+ or 5.8)
p. 7 Make a "hard" bouldery move up the faint dike (5.7) above the belay, wander through overlaps and belay in a left-facing nook under a cave/roof.
p. 8 Climb/slither up the flakes or chimney, pull the roof (5.7) and either trend right for the regular finish or (better) set up a belay here. This will avoid rope drag on
p. 9 Kurt's Corner, follow the obvious fun corner (5.7+) to the top of the cliff.
The descent is tricky. Find the Helipad. If you are looking out from the cliff across the highway, follow the trail that stems from the front right corner. There is a trail to the left that leads to nothing. The trail to the right will wind back to t
Submitted by: lucander on 2007-02-14
Route ID: 5756
One of my favorite routes I've done. Split leads with partner evenly. Some fun stuff beyond the last pitch you can rap off, but certainly not enough to justify the long/nasty descent. I wouldn't bother with the stuff above pitch six again.
My foot popped off while pulling the triangular roof. The rope slid along the serrated edge of the roof (I was following) and was cut through the sheath to the core. Lots of white core showing, some of it frizzy from the edge. I tied in above the core shot and actually enjoyed the rest of the climb. Only later did I replay that moment in my head and, ahem, give it some thought. 5th pitch (Finger) is a gem. Just watch the roof move.