Routes : North America : United States : New Hampshire : Grafton County : Cannon Cliff : Big wall section- Central sect : Moby Grape
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Moby Grape - 5.8 popular
Average Rating : 4.85 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (48)
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Rock (Trad)
G
light rack to 4", maybe a couple of more cams if doing Reppy's
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Description:
8 pitches following a brilliant line. p. 1 Reppy's. Can't miss this one, follow the crack, step left, and proceed up and right to the only bolted belay on the route (190 ft) p. 2 wander straight up with one off move (5.7) to a good belay ledge under the triangular roof. p. 3 Pull the roof at the crack (5.8) and wander up and right to a belay next to the left facing corner. p. 4 Climb the corner past an old peg and follow another right facing corner (5.7) to another good belay ledge. p. 5 Wander up to the sickle, tie it off and go (5.7). The finger of fate is above, belay at its right side on a great ledge. p. 6 Climb the fickle finger (figure it out yourself), step across to a slab. Hit a ledge and walk left 30 feet (5.6+ or 5.8) p. 7 Make a "hard" bouldery move up the faint dike (5.7) above the belay, wander through overlaps and belay in a left-facing nook under a cave/roof. p. 8 Climb/slither up the flakes or chimney, pull the roof (5.7) and either trend right for the regular finish or (better) set up a belay here. This will avoid rope drag on p. 9 Kurt's Corner, follow the obvious fun corner (5.7+) to the top of the cliff.Descent Options:
The descent is tricky. Find the Helipad. If you are looking out from the cliff across the highway, follow the trail that stems from the front right corner. There is a trail to the left that leads to nothing. The trail to the right will wind back to t
Submitted by: lucander on 2007-02-14
Views: 4034
Route ID: 5756
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48 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 48 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
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| Scenery | |
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Onsight ascent by:
BIG!!
Great climb ( scary at times ) long and full of every style of climbing. Started up Reppy's as the direct start, well worth it. Came back 2 weeks later and did the whole thing again.
Added: 2011-10-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Led all Pitches!
Great time, we met a guy in the parking lot who offered to join our party and lend us his experience and beta which proved invaluable.
Added: 2011-07-25
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
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| Scenery | |
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Flash ascent by:
Fantastic
One of my favorite routes I've done. Split leads with partner evenly. Some fun stuff beyond the last pitch you can rap off, but certainly not enough to justify the long/nasty descent. I wouldn't bother with the stuff above pitch six again.
Added: 2011-07-25
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|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Moby Grape
a couple real heady pitches. Got a little lost on the 6th pitch. Great route.
Added: 2011-07-20
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Whew.
My foot popped off while pulling the triangular roof. The rope slid along the serrated edge of the roof (I was following) and was cut through the sheath to the core. Lots of white core showing, some of it frizzy from the edge. I tied in above the core shot and actually enjoyed the rest of the climb. Only later did I replay that moment in my head and, ahem, give it some thought. 5th pitch (Finger) is a gem. Just watch the roof move.
Added: 2011-07-17
