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Moby Grape - 5.8 popular

Average Rating = 4.85/5 Average Rating : 4.85 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (48)
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Rock (Trad)
G
light rack to 4", maybe a couple of more cams if doing Reppy's
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.48/5
  Rock Quality 4.29/5
  Scenery 4.76/5
  Fun Factor 4.81/5

Description:

8 pitches following a brilliant line. p. 1 Reppy's. Can't miss this one, follow the crack, step left, and proceed up and right to the only bolted belay on the route (190 ft) p. 2 wander straight up with one off move (5.7) to a good belay ledge under the triangular roof. p. 3 Pull the roof at the crack (5.8) and wander up and right to a belay next to the left facing corner. p. 4 Climb the corner past an old peg and follow another right facing corner (5.7) to another good belay ledge. p. 5 Wander up to the sickle, tie it off and go (5.7). The finger of fate is above, belay at its right side on a great ledge. p. 6 Climb the fickle finger (figure it out yourself), step across to a slab. Hit a ledge and walk left 30 feet (5.6+ or 5.8) p. 7 Make a "hard" bouldery move up the faint dike (5.7) above the belay, wander through overlaps and belay in a left-facing nook under a cave/roof. p. 8 Climb/slither up the flakes or chimney, pull the roof (5.7) and either trend right for the regular finish or (better) set up a belay here. This will avoid rope drag on p. 9 Kurt's Corner, follow the obvious fun corner (5.7+) to the top of the cliff.

Descent Options:

The descent is tricky. Find the Helipad. If you are looking out from the cliff across the highway, follow the trail that stems from the front right corner. There is a trail to the left that leads to nothing. The trail to the right will wind back to t

Submitted by: lucander on 2007-02-14
Views: 4085
Route ID: 5756

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48 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Fat_Fil on 2009-09-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars BIG!!

Great climb ( scary at times ) long and full of every style of climbing. Started up Reppy's as the direct start, well worth it. Came back 2 weeks later and did the whole thing again.

Added: 2011-10-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: secander on 2011-07-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Led all Pitches!

Great time, we met a guy in the parking lot who offered to join our party and lend us his experience and beta which proved invaluable.

Added: 2011-07-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: Mellow on 2011-07-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fantastic

One of my favorite routes I've done. Split leads with partner evenly. Some fun stuff beyond the last pitch you can rap off, but certainly not enough to justify the long/nasty descent. I wouldn't bother with the stuff above pitch six again.

Added: 2011-07-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cuoccoppi on 2011-07-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Moby Grape

a couple real heady pitches. Got a little lost on the 6th pitch. Great route.

Added: 2011-07-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: perelman on 2011-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Whew.

My foot popped off while pulling the triangular roof. The rope slid along the serrated edge of the roof (I was following) and was cut through the sheath to the core. Lots of white core showing, some of it frizzy from the edge. I tied in above the core shot and actually enjoyed the rest of the climb. Only later did I replay that moment in my head and, ahem, give it some thought. 5th pitch (Finger) is a gem. Just watch the roof move.

Added: 2011-07-17

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