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Sticky Fingers - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock
micronuts, small nuts and cams.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 2.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

the thin right leaning seam/finger crack to the right of slow and easy, just north of the duet buttress splitting the right side of a blank face.

Submitted by: brad84 on 2005-08-11
Views: 1292
Route ID: 68855

6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: blueeyedclimber on 2010-09-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Nice then scary!

It is described as two pitches but I linked them. I onsited the first pitch which felt about mid 10, then fell at the first bolt on the second pitch. I lowered back to the ledge and then sent so I am calling it a redpoint. In the process of sending though, I think I wet my pants. I didn't read the description very well and didn't realize the second bolt was on route because it was so far to the left. At first I tried to go straight up to the third bolt but got sketched and downclimbed a move. I then realized that I could get over to under the bolt to the left . Getting up to it was not easy though. Every time I clipped a bolt on this climb, a big sigh of relief was let out. This climb is not for everyone. I am sure someone out there likes it.

Added: 2010-09-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lucander on 2010-06-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sticky Fingers

Note: Fixed belay atop first pitch is gone but the bolts on pitch 2 are replaced, it is best to link these in a full 105 foot mega pitch. The upper face offers three widely spaced bolts and no other gear, so plan accordingly. "Sport" draws are a liability, because the second bolt is 15 fee right of the first.
I took one fall mantling in to the wide pod on the first pitch...knucklehead.

Added: 2010-06-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leewee on 2007-06-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars first pitch not so hard

the second pitch was hard and a little scary.. but thats cause im not so tough...haha

Added: 2007-06-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: boulderhopper on 2005-10-13 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-10-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: brad84 on 2005-08-10 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

this is the hardest .10 i have ever lead; harder than vultures which is supposed to be hard for the grade at .10d. a very aesthetic line none the less.

Witnessed by: fryinbacon
Added: 2005-08-10

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