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Vertigo - 5.9 popular

Average Rating = 4.88/5 Average Rating : 4.88 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Rock (Trad)
PG13
5
Standard rack with small pieces and gear up to three or four inches
450
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 A0
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.17/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.83/5

Description:

(p. 1, 5.5) A nondescript lead. Either follow the corner or do Union Jack's first pitch up to an obvious good ledge. (p. 2, 5.8 A0) Follow pockets up to a roof, step right and follow the obvious thin flake up and right to the bolt. Lower 15-30 feet and swing across the slab into the next corner. Bump up a few feet to a small stance and belay. Tim Kemple has freed this at 5.12. (p.3, 5.9) Follow the beautiful and clean arching finger crack on the left wall up to an overlap. Make a strange move above the overlap and stop at an obvous belay. (p. 4, 5.9) Make another awkward move off the belay around the corner and continue up the crack. It starts at micro wires and ends at four inches. Belay at pitons below the obvious half moon. (p. 5, 5.9 - FA called it 5.8) Move up to the notorious Half Moon Crack. Thrash and wiggle your way up and stop at an obvious belay above it. Savor the views and either continue up a pitch or 5.6 and some scrambling or rap the route. **There's allegedly a way to avoid this pitch. One should not attempt this route if one needs such options.

Descent Options:

Continue up at will and descend at the (ex) Old Man as for Moby Grape or rap down with 2-3 double rope rappels

Submitted by: edge on 2007-09-10
Views: 2078
Route ID: 58654

11 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 11 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 A0
  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: IsayAutumn on 2013-07-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars very good

Led pitch one, then linked pitches 2 & 3 together for an epic 5.9 A0 pitch. Very cool. Partner took the other 5.9 pitch and the OW. Fun route on good rock the whole way.

Added: 2013-07-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Paul_W on 1990-02-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Notes on a winter ascent

Was able to climb this in full on winter conditions. Temps in the mid 20's. Was familiar with the route from summer ascent. Found it very demanding and very rewarding. It was cool to do the pendulum in wool knickers, and thick wool socks crammed into my rock shoes.

Added: 2010-10-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: cantaloupe on 2008-05-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Vertigo

long runout on half moon crack

Added: 2008-06-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2007-09-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Moons over Notchland

A fantastic route, the best of my limited Cannon excursions. Don't forget pitches 3 & 4, although the Halfmoon gets the glory these pitches are excellent as well. How did this plum not go until the late 70s?

Added: 2007-09-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: treddy on 2007-09-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Bagged

Led P2 and P5...painful and srenuous, but no worse for the wear.

Added: 2007-09-09

... Read all 11 ascent notes