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Whitney-Gilman Ridge - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 4.74/5 Average Rating : 4.74 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (80)
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Rock
Regular rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.91/5
  Rock Quality 3.57/5
  Scenery 4.89/5
  Fun Factor 4.86/5

Description:

Start on right side of the ridge toward the left edge of Cannon cliff. The ridge is just left of a wet winter route called Black Dike (hard to miss). Reach the bottom via a trail off the bike path, marked with an obvious cairn, and a scramble up the talus field. 1 - Start at the top of the gully at base, move up using off-width crack (5.6) or hand traverse left (5.5), then up right onto easier ground, then up left to a huge ledge. 2 - Up crack, left onto face to big ledge (can combine 1 and 2 w/ 60m rope). 3 - Up, left to V-chimney, right (avoid loose blocks) to belay below four-inch crack. 4 - Up crack and corner, right to pipe in rock, up until belay around corner. 5 - Up slab past a block, left to ledge, up corner and sharp ridge to standing belay. 6 - Up and left up ridge to crux (5.7) move out of steep alcove, then up to top to belay at large boulders. Walk off left on a steep trail. Spectacular climbing and a great adventure. Get an early start.

Submitted by: jhwnewengland on 2003-02-15
Views: 4166
Route ID: 1913

Topo Images

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80 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: orangekyak on 2014-08-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Beautiful Day on Canon

Excellent weather and fun climbing with Paul. I led p2 and p6 top-out.

Added: 2014-08-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: zmclaugh on 2013-07-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome, awesome, awesome

Super fun climb with great exposure and a spectacular view top to bottom. Wasn't exactly psyched about the 150ft vertical ascent hike at the top to get to the brutal descent trail. Make sure you save water for the descent. Ended up drinking from a stream. Can't say enough good things about this climb.

Added: 2013-07-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mathdesj on 2011-11-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great Climbing

Great climbing overall with wicked exposure! Watch for loose rock.
Left crack variation on P1 somewhat sketchy and commiting.

Added: 2012-10-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mnottingham on 2011-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Whitney Gilman

Sweet climbing with great weather and no other climbing parties on a Thursday. Seconded WG about 5 years ago. Finally led it. Did the 5.8 variation for pitch 2 unintentionally.

Added: 2011-09-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: secander on 2011-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great climb

bad bad rock quality due to recent rock fall.

Added: 2011-07-10

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