Routes : North America : United States : New Hampshire : Grafton County : Cannon Cliff : left side : Whitney-Gilman Ridge
PreviousWhitney-Gilman Ridge - 5.7 popular
Average Rating : 4.73 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (78)
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Description:
Start on right side of the ridge toward the left edge of Cannon cliff. The ridge is just left of a wet winter route called Black Dike (hard to miss). Reach the bottom via a trail off the bike path, marked with an obvious cairn, and a scramble up the talus field. 1 - Start at the top of the gully at base, move up using off-width crack (5.6) or hand traverse left (5.5), then up right onto easier ground, then up left to a huge ledge. 2 - Up crack, left onto face to big ledge (can combine 1 and 2 w/ 60m rope). 3 - Up, left to V-chimney, right (avoid loose blocks) to belay below four-inch crack. 4 - Up crack and corner, right to pipe in rock, up until belay around corner. 5 - Up slab past a block, left to ledge, up corner and sharp ridge to standing belay. 6 - Up and left up ridge to crux (5.7) move out of steep alcove, then up to top to belay at large boulders. Walk off left on a steep trail. Spectacular climbing and a great adventure. Get an early start.
Submitted by: jhwnewengland on 2003-02-15
Views: 3418
Route ID: 1913
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78 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 78 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Great Climbing
Great climbing overall with wicked exposure! Watch for loose rock.
Left crack variation on P1 somewhat sketchy and commiting.
Left crack variation on P1 somewhat sketchy and commiting.
Added: 2012-10-22
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Whitney Gilman
Sweet climbing with great weather and no other climbing parties on a Thursday. Seconded WG about 5 years ago. Finally led it. Did the 5.8 variation for pitch 2 unintentionally.
Added: 2011-09-06
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Great climb
bad bad rock quality due to recent rock fall.
Added: 2011-07-10
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
brought bivy gear along, but got there too late!
I got lost on the drive down, hiked up in the night, we wanted to sleep on the climb...
Lots of loose rock, if you're below another party, stop bitching and don't stay right under them, they're trying to do their best not to drop pebbles...
Lots of loose rock, if you're below another party, stop bitching and don't stay right under them, they're trying to do their best not to drop pebbles...
Added: 2011-04-22
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
First serious trad climb
What a way to start a climbing career. Beware of getting your knee stuck in the four inch crack when jamming.
Added: 2010-12-06
