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Rock du Jours Direct - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.20/5 Average Rating : 4.20 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 150
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock
all bolts, bring a couple of runners, 60m rope recommended
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

5.9 Two pitches, start up somewhat vegetated corner rt of Gold Digger, then up to RDJ belay following eyebolts. From belay out left on overhanging flakes(pretty far),a bit scary, then up short face to a notch. Hand traverse rt out rail through bird poop, Step out rt to exposed face(holds)instead of groveling up corner, then finish up final flakes.Lower to first anchor. Be carefull of knocking stones on people when rapping last corner or pulling rope. fun and airy. Alternative pitch 2: bring some cams. Follow the overhanging flakes out left as usual (5.9), pull over to rest on the slab. Work up and left, then back right following cracks and corners until you reach the wildly exposed 2-bolt final face section. Look down on all the sport climbers below.

Submitted by: mrksprague on 2005-11-17
Views: 804
Route ID: 19568

7 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 7 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: niccast on 2008-07-09 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars 1st pitch only

We only did the first pitch because a bird was circling us and squaking angrily, so we thought we were getting too close to its nest. The first pitch was boring...supposedly the 2nd pitch is where it's at

Added: 2008-07-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: doze on 2007-10-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars rock du jours direct

second pitch is much more interesting than the first one. There's also a nice bolted 5.12c variation of second pitch (Soup to nuts),which is a very interesting boulder problem one hundred feet above the ground.

Added: 2007-10-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Feartone on 2007-10-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars wooo

great climb! fun and slightly scary second pitch

Added: 2007-10-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: multiades on 2007-09-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Beautiful two-pitch

I didn't think one could have this sort of experience sport climbing. The fun is in the second pitch. Highly, highly recommended.

Added: 2007-09-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: A.J. on 2007-08-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Rock du Jours Direct - 5.9

Just when you think the exposure is about right, the second pitch sends you on a couple of overhaning hand traverses that make things spicy. Good holds keep you going to a heroic finish.

Added: 2007-08-06

... Read all 7 ascent notes