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Little Shop of Horrors - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.20/5 Average Rating : 3.20 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock (Trad) (Toprope)
PG13
2
Full set of stoppers or Medium -Small cams
90
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.80/5
  Rock Quality 3.40/5
  Scenery 2.80/5
  Fun Factor 3.20/5

Description:

Pitch 1- Climb the thin crack through the center of the low ceiling (at the tree), then up the face to the ledge and tree belay. Pitch 2 - Continue up a corner to another belay ledge, then past some junky rock to gain a chimney like groove. Exit left (crux of pitch) at the top to a rappel station.

Descent Options:

Rappel from Station at the top

Submitted by: elg0086 on 2007-04-30
Views: 999
Route ID: 85465

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: njrox on 2011-10-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Little Shop of Horrors

Tried this a few months ago at the end of a long day and didn't have the strength to pull the roof. Successful climb on 10/22. First pitch only. Clean rock, good moves, fun roof.

Added: 2011-10-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: shovelracer on 2011-07-24 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars The gaunlet

Most are only doing the first pitch only. The gaunlet or second pitch is a whole different story. First pitch is clean and fun. Second pitch is dirty, shallow cracks make pro sorta sketchy down low. Some real bomber places can be found though, especially higher up. Found a super sketchy TR or rappel station slung over large rock chunk a little ways up. Not redundant and was 90% chewed through on the back. I wonder how many used it without ever checking the entire thing. I pulled it down so it could not be used any more. Started raining while I was in the chimney, darn rock gets real slick with just a little moisture. You will find my WC #5 nut stuck in there somewhere. Book says there is a rappel station on the left at the top, but the area is so overgrown that it is hard to get to. Instead I traversed right at the top to an established tree station just right and below a large boulder chunk outcrop containing several newer slings and a cord with rings. Rappelled to TR ledge and again to bottom. Since the second decided to bail due to the wet rock I lead and cleaned on rappel. I am calling this ascent "clean onsight solo".

Added: 2011-07-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Pennsy on 2009-05-17 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Little Shop of Horrors

Top roped the first pitch. A directional or 2 makes for some worthwhile variations as well. Fun climb and a nice way to end the day.

Added: 2009-05-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dynobelay on 2007-12-17 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars a nice lead

Protection is all good except for 1 spot at the beginning of the wide groove. A carefully placed big cam is needed here. Then its fun the rest of the way to top.

Added: 2007-12-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: elg0086 on 2007-04-29 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Little Shop of Horrors

Easy to set up a top rope for the first pitch. To set a top rope from the top, climb Squeezebox.

Added: 2007-04-30