Routes : North America : United States : New Jersey : Northern rt 80 and up : Delaware Water gap (Mount Tammany) : Liquid Squeeze Area (Outlands) : Donkey Kong Death Wallop
PreviousDonkey Kong Death Wallop - 5.8 popular
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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John Greco, Bruce Jodoin Oct 2, 2010
Rock (Trad)
PG13
2
210
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Description:
This new Tammany big roof classic features exciting roof cruxes on both pitches with some moderate face climbing and a short stretch of pure slab for good measure. Starts 25' right of the left facing corner of Outlander, below a series of roofs that start about 75' above the base. P1 (5.7 PG13 110') From the base, follow a short corner that trends up and right to some low angle face. Protection is sparse for the first 50' but the climbing is relatively easy. Head for a shallow, left facing corner capped by a small roof about 60' up. Climb the corner and escape the roof to the right. Continue up, passing the 1st prominent roof to it's right and climb steep face toward the center of the 2nd prominent roof with a flake like feature on it's underside. Small cams will protect the moves up the 2nd roof. Over the 2nd roof at it's center (5.7) and continue up low angle slab to a ledge at the base of a large left facing corner and clean slab. Belay at the base of the corner. P2 (5.8 PG13 100') Directly above the corner is a notch through an imposing roof system. Head up the corner from the belay on smooth, clean slab for about 20'. There is little pro here (maybe a micro-nut), but there is a good horizontal at the top of the slab. Move up and left around the initial bulge below the notch, then back right under the big roof to on top of the bulge. There is a good #3 camalot placement behind the bulge and another in the obvious crack above and right of the bulge. Work to get a stance on the bulge (crux) and move up through the notch on good holds. Once above the roof, move up and slightly right on steep face aiming just to the right of the spruce tree leaning out from the cliff's top. Pull one final roof just below and right of the spruce and finish up in the woods. Belay from trees 20' back from the top out.Descent Options:
Walk back toward the highway 50’ to 75’ and set up a single rope rappel from a tree down to the fixed rappel station for Outlander & Decent Exposure. Looking down from the top of the cliff, you should see some obvious trees and pines about 75’ down. The
Submitted by: Pennsy on 2010-10-05
Last Modified: 2010-10-12
Views: 2755
Route ID: 106786
1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Fun new route
I really enjoyed following John Greco and being part of this FA. P1 starts out mellow which is good because the gear is sparse, but the gear is there when you pull over the roof.
P2 has 2 cruxes. The 1st crux is right off the belay with a few very thin moves on slab, maybe protectable with a small nut. 2nd crux is not actually the huge roof, but the awkward bulge just below it. 2 #3 cams helpful here. Pull the roof, and move up the face to one more roof at the top. Great stuff.
This is the Gap and there is loose rock, but not nearly as much vegetation as in other areas.
P2 has 2 cruxes. The 1st crux is right off the belay with a few very thin moves on slab, maybe protectable with a small nut. 2nd crux is not actually the huge roof, but the awkward bulge just below it. 2 #3 cams helpful here. Pull the roof, and move up the face to one more roof at the top. Great stuff.
This is the Gap and there is loose rock, but not nearly as much vegetation as in other areas.
Added: 2010-10-05
