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Raven Steals The Sun - 5.12a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Kevin Jaramillo Jason Patton
Rock (Trad)
PG13
6
Standard Sandia free rack to 2" (1 x 3" optional). Including HB brass offsets and offset Aliens (need these if you wanna protect the route well) Extra slings and quickdraw to avoid drag on a few pitches(especially pitch 6-crux) two 60M ropes for rappel ap
800
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Hike on the La Luz trail to the La Vista Overlook below Kiwanis Cabin. From the little man-made retaining wall head down to the west towards some dead trees and into the first notch. Hike south staying high next to some talus until you locate a corridor that requires a little down climbing into the next notch. From this second notch hike up and southwest to the summit of La Vista. The first Rappel Anchor is located to the southwest from this summit. Rappel into the notch below and scramble a short distance west to locate the tree rappel that takes you down the last pitch of Raven Steals the Sun. Rappel straight down from this tree to a stance with a bolt and fixed pin (about 190’) from this anchor rappel down about 60’ until you spot the sweet belay ledge to the right with a bolt and fixed Pin. You’ll have to put forth a slight effort to lower and swing right to this anchor but it’s not that bad. About 100’ also At this anchor you might want to leave a couple extra draws to avoid friction so the rope will pull from the next rappel anchor( I placed a steel link on the fixed pin here but the rope was really hard to pull last time I climbed the route). From this anchor rappel straight down to a big ledge with trees 100’ and work over to the north and down to a big tree with rappel anchors. From this tree Rappel straight down about 190’ to another tree rappel. One more rappel from this tree puts you on the ground and next to the start of the climb. Raven Steals the Sun starts to the left(north of La Vista Route on a smooth slab with two major horizontal breaks in it. Pitch 1 start to the right of a hole/cave featyre at the base of the slabby wall below a seam with fixed pins in it. Gain the seam by face climbing past 2 fixed pins. Crank the seam 11c to a thin right facing flake. Go staright up through the first break and up a flake. Step left at the top of the flake and then up to a ledge with a little tree. A bouldery move gains an obvious and clean left facing corner that leads to a big ledge and a tree marking the belay. Pitch 2 climb up and right but then work left above a little tree and up a crack. Head up and right along the ramp aiming towards a nice finger crack left of the arête. Above climb to a bushy ledge and up a small detached pillar to gain another ramp. Go up the ramp and then right around some big detached blocks. Go up a wide crack with face holds until you can step left and over to the belay at a big tree. 5.9+ Pitch 3 A short Scramble up to the ledge above that have a big detached flake that looks like a Raven Set the Belay here. 5.5 Pitch 4 Climb the sweet but short hand crack up the raven. Step right from the ravens head and into a crack/ramp system. Go about 30 and step right to clip an optional fixed pin at a stance or continue up the corner into a shallow roof. At this point you have to head right out some sloppy moves onto a sloping ledge. From this sloping ledge go right a bit to gain another ramp heading up and left to a good ledge. Clip the bolt and rest. Crank the bouldery move and up into a right facing crack system to a fixed pin. Crank the move and climb up and right to a sweet belay ledge with a bolt and fixed pin. 11c Pitch 5 Climb straight up and into the left trending roof until you can turn the roof system at its left side. Go straight up a fun crack system to a little roof. Good holds exit the roof up and right to a sloping stance and the belay with a bolt and fixed pin (or you can continue left and back right to the belay). Pitch 6 crux. Be careful with rope drag or you’ll be screwed! Climb the small left facing corner above the belay to a small stance. Then head up the thin crack to three bolts. Crank through the bolts 11d/12a and up to a left leaning crack. Go up the crack a short way but then head up and right to a series of 7 fixed pins that go up and to the right 11d/12a. at the last pin head up to a belay at a tree just below the summit. You can continue up if you don’t have too much drag or you can gun it for the very top. Belaying here give a nice view of the second.

Descent Options:

Rappel route and hike out echo canyon or send the route and hike out the La Luz Trail

Submitted by: KevinJaramillo on 2007-11-13
Views: 360
Route ID: 90530

1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Red Point Red Point ascent by: grippedclimber on 2007-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars FA

This route left me electricly charged!

Added: 2007-11-18