trad full rack up to #4 and I will add a couple o bolts when weather is bad currently required to skirt best part due to RX on P3
P1 Climb up face 5.6RX to right of second comming . climb to small tree and go straight up thru bulgy and bookish inside of the right side of the arete.WATCH OUT for LOOSE rock,then, climb up bushy crack to a short (novice) OW that terminates in a small roof turn roof and go up to a two bolt anchor shared w/rapture. 5.9-....
P2 climb straight up WATCH OUT FOR BIG ASS LOOSE ROCKs with minimal pro to a large flake about 100 feet up climb excellent flake to right and stop at around 45m or so and set an anchor on ledge with excellent crack at your feet.5.9.....
P3 (unfinished) climb seam up right side of face following seams to right facing diehedral to join an established VAR to second coming climb up crack to big ledge then pick your head wall exit. I suggest the bigger crack the tricky 9+ old route up to a ledge No anchor on top so plan on keeping a .5 camalot to anchor with and big loop of rope. 5.9+ .......
SAFETY NOTE, P3 is safer if you join second coming on right if by climbing the Left facing dihedral for 40 feet before transitioning to right facing dihedral.... Soon there will be bolts or a few new pins, so you can safetly climb direct safer, currently 5.9+ RX
FFA I doubt it..too many hard core Sandians before me...
This route lower section is too good to be new Though I like the VAR to 2nd comming much better rock and more direct., I have seen a drawing of the bottom OW in an old description though climbing it for past three years havent noticed any climber signs.
I plan on safing this up next week and doing some trundelling of loose rock in middle, God willing
same as reckoning/rapture
Submitted by: amason on 2006-12-21
Route ID: 81366