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Second Coming - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.33/5 Average Rating : 3.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock
G
Standard rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.50/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

A little loose, but is generally considered an area classic. This climb starts about 1/2 way down Chimney Canyon. Look for the obvious headwall feature near the top. P1) Easy wandering. P2) More tough route-finding. Climb generally up and left to reach an enormous ledge system around the corner. P3) Climb up corners to reach a belay below the headwall (5.8). P4) Choice of finishes. The most common finish is the nice 5.7 splitter on the right side of the headwall. Two other cracks to the left go at 5.9 and 5.10. NOTE: Someone chopped the anchor bolts in during July UPDATE 6-8-07 anchor hangers back at base of headwall pitch and above the 10d topout

Submitted by: amason on 2007-06-20
Views: 1009
Route ID: 46446

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6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leinosaur on 2007-06-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars killer second half

I led the first and last pitches of this one, choosing the 10a straight-up finish (looked like the most natural line to me,) and that last one made the so-so first couple of pitches well worth it. Probably my favorite pitch of a 3-week trip all around the west. Crack mostly for pro and side-pulls, edges on the face, continuous but not too bad. Doesn't turn out as steep as it looks - but way way fun anyway

Added: 2007-06-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: berkly on 2007-06-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars First two pitches are shit

Second two make up for them. Nice corner system on p3 with splitters and good rock up to the headwall. 10a topout is soooooo awesome, thin, good edges/locks, a few loose flakes but sustained and pumpy. Take extreme caution on p1&2 with loose rock, my rope knocked off a mini-basketball while I was taking care not to step or kick off any loose stuff

Added: 2007-06-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: patorionm on 2003-05-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Second Coming not my first choice

If warpy is taken, this is fun too.

Added: 2007-01-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: amason on 2006-09-23 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

yes this is a chossy classic

Witnessed by: free
Added: 2006-09-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: grippedclimer on 2003-07-12 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2003-07-12

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