Some big new bolts,rack up to #3.5 camalot. NOT a SPORT CLIMB AMIGOS three two bolt anchors
The Rapture 2004-2006
(P1) 55m Use medium to small pro on right for first twenty feet
then move left clipping two bolts 10a/b
move up and right placing 0.75 camalot at ledge then
cruise straight up place new green C3 or small Alien cam
in a small parallel crack (this is very important piece)
Climb fun natural line past bolts to top of face 11b/c *** .
you may want to place a#2 or #3 camalot on the way to the two bolt anchor.
10 bolts or so
(P2) Climb to left passing piton LA on 5.5 R some pro available on way to face.
You can place #.4 camalot on way to first bolt on the face pitch
Climb face direct at 10a or meander right and pass crux at 5.9- three bolts
..ends at big enough for good sex ledge and two bolts.
(P3) This was goal of Rapture linking to left side of the established head wall, a great place to be.
Sprint thru the mantal clipping three bolts on way to arching left facing crack
thats apex is a roof with small crack above some loosenesss and wetness quite possible.
Stem at roof (A .5 camalot is quite healthy here) then,Spring over 10b roof to excellect
hands quickly and carefully climb straight up tricky cool section to big ledge.
Grope over the lip of BIG ledge being careful not to send large rocks down.
I sugguest quickly climb straight up to the exciting continuious 5.10 FFA ?
crack to two bolt anchor to right of big crack***.(great pro)FA amason pfresh............................
chimney canyon or return to the crest
Submitted by: amason on 2006-12-02
Route ID: 78024