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Rainbow Dancer - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad)
Full trad rack up to 3 inches
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Incredible route with stupendous exposure. This one took me four tries. P1-75 feet, 5.8R>Start on a face with small crack just right of the Rainbow Route, climb through a small tree through a little overhang and then face climb up to a prominent left facing dihedral. P2-100 feet, 5.8>Climb the nice dihedral to a nice ledge with one old 1/4 inch bolt. P3- 80 feet, 5.10>Now for the hairy stuff - climb the thin crack in the corner and then traverse up and left across a face to a bolt at the right edge of the 1st rainbow arch. Continue left and belay below some vertical cracks. P4-120 feet,5.10> Climb the crack system up and then when it blanks out...climb down and right across hard face moves to reach another crack system. Then follow the crack system up and right to a little ledge below the right edge of the 2nd rainbow. P5-70 feet,5.10) Climb a thin crack just to the right of the arch and then traverse left over the arch passing a couple of pitons to a small little ledge with the "impossible flake" sitting on its left side. P6-130 feet,5.11>Climb up on the impossible flake and then face climb straight up to the top of the overhang above the ledge (staying near the right edge). Then face climb up a little right, then a little left on the hard face to an old bolt. Pull the crux move and belay. P7-150 feet, 5.8> climb the corner above about 50 feet and then traverse up and left into an easier corner for about 150 feet. P8 - 80 feet,5.8>we went left and got on a big ledge. P9 - 90 feet, 5.8> we chose a chimney for out last pitch (many options here) in a left facing corner. i wrote a little story about this one that is in the articles.

Submitted by: thereason on 2007-11-28
Views: 576
Route ID: 59169

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: thereason on 1999-11-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 1999-11-13

  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: okieterry on 1999-02-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Awesome route - Took me four tries (got rained off the first two times, ran out of time and got lost on the crux pitch on the 3rd attempt). Watch the 3rd pitch..I nearly took a long one here...key is to traverse left until almost under the bolt and then go up.

Witnessed by: Russell Hooper
Added: 1999-02-20