OK, I was jonesing one January to climb up in the Sandias. We went up to Crackula and nearly epiced. The cracks were full of ice, cold hands/feet with 30 foot runouts on what seemed to be 5.9 terrain. However, I am sure it is much easier in the summer. We did a varaition to the left on P2 which goes up a dihedral which has a fixed piton.
Submitted by: grippedclimer on 2004-11-12
Route ID: 61663
Perfect 90 degree left-facing dihedral that takes 1" - 2" gear at nice resting places. I started to link up both pitches, but came back down and built a belay anchor to eliminate the rope drag. For the second pitch, we veered off to the left (the piton was calling me!). Going for the hand-hold on the ledge, I grabbed a loose rock and almost fell.
I thought this was a pretty stiff 5.8, and while I can normally climb cracks without bloodying my hands, this one did extract a bit of skin from my knuckles.
I set the first piece and backed down, My buddy Jim, set the next piece and another piece real close and backed down. I finished leading the climb. The guide book says two pitches but I made it in one with a short 50m rope (part of it was cut off) and with my buddy Jim had to climb and to the first piece (10-15 ft up) for me to finish.