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Smegma Deluxe - 5.11d

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 33
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Michael LaPlante
Rock (Sport)
6 Bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5


The best route in the Original Area, this line ascends some really amazingly featured rock. Up to the 3rd bolt it's maybe 10a, but the next 10 feet demand a great sequence of inobvious balance moves using hidden holds. The climbing above the crux is also great, but easier (mid 5.10). The route is well-protected, with clean falls and good clipping stances. The climb is the nearly all the way at the east (right) end of the crag. Look for the line of bolts immediately left of an obvious body-length roof.

Descent Options:

Rap/lower off the two welded cold shuts at the top, or an easy and short walk-off to your right.

Submitted by: alexnees on 2007-03-25
Views: 417
Route ID: 84067

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tjames on 2008-09-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Climb!

i climbed this route in the first week of july 08...i had no idea what any of the grades at mentmore guess is 11b...but, i'm from the east coast, so i probably downgrade was hard though... good rock, fun moves, decent clip stances and great hardware...kudos to whomever put up the climbs in this area...

Added: 2008-09-13

  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: alexnees on 2007-03-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Best climb at the crag

A great climb, my favorite at Mentmore so far. Fun start, amazing balancy crux, good climbing above.

Added: 2007-03-12