Established on 5-30-04. Immediately to the left of Prince Valiant. Still very loose, be sure to test your holds before stressing them. Rope drag can be a problem so long draws or a sling would ease things along. Easy climbing with big plentiful holds till you pass the last bolt and hit a small overhang just before the chains. Great new route! Ratings still need to be established but we thought it an 8, as it will be till someone sees fit to alter it.
Submitted by: cchildre on 2006-09-11
Route ID: 53755
Lots of loose rock still: a phonebook-sized chunk broke off by the fourth bolt, narrowly missing my belayer. There is also currently a loose toaster-sized block just below the second bolt. Rope drag by the second bolt, an ankle-smashing ledge below the fourth bolt, and the anchors are five feet right of the bolt line. What's not to like?
My second onsight and we also unknowingly got the 2nd ascent. Really crusty route that will need some time to clear of debris. I would rate it as a 5.8 only because of the overhang just before the chains. The start was a little hairy too. Fine route.